{"id":28120,"date":"2025-01-15T16:41:41","date_gmt":"2025-01-15T15:41:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/?p=28120"},"modified":"2025-01-15T16:42:23","modified_gmt":"2025-01-15T15:42:23","slug":"oliviero-toscani-the-bold-photographer-of-benetton-campaigns","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/oliviero-toscani-the-bold-photographer-of-benetton-campaigns\/","title":{"rendered":"Oliviero Toscani: the bold photographer of Benetton campaigns"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"initial-letter\"><p>The photographer Oliviero Toscani, known for his campaigns for Benetton, died on 13 January has revealed throughout his career clich\u00e9s marked by a certain provocation but highlighting the diversity of the world and the inequalities and suffering that inhabit it. Return to this legacy of redefining the codes of visual communication.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>\u201cAdvertising photography should not sell a product, it should sell an idea,\u201d<\/em> said Oliviero Toscani. A mantra that sums up his photographic journey. Born in 1942 in Milan to a photographer father, the artist takes his arms in the streets of New York by taking pictures of urban life. In 1976, he created the campaign Les contemporains for the creator Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>When he joined Benetton in 1982,<\/strong> his career took a new turn. The challenge to deliver a message. Racism, inclusion, death penalty, HIV, religion, women\u2019s cause&#8230; <strong>a true social manifesto.<\/strong> Adored by progressives and criticized by well-wishers, the artist\u2019s sultry campaigns for Benetton propelled the Italian brand image into a sphere that was unexploited by the fashion industry at the time.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Diversity and inclusiveness, a key topic of Oliviero Toscani<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>For the fall-winter 1984 collection, Oliviero Toscani unveiled its first campaign \u00abAll the colors of the world\u00bb. Photography certainly is a nod to the pop tones of the Italian brand but it turns out to be a reflection of diversity, valuing various cultures. On a white background, people of all ethnic groups pose in Christmas sweaters, between hugs and smiles.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The 1989 winter campaign is called \u201cBreastfeeding\u201d and features a black woman nursing a white baby. In addition to diversity, this photograph advocates a certain feminism, at a time when women\u2019s bare and natural breasts are banned on social networks and where mothers still have to hide to breastfeed their child in the public space. For the following season, two \u201cChildren on the pot\u201d were photographed.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_28118\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-28118\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-28118\" src=\"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/JLWTHOPT7ZA2RPPTR7UIUDBD2Q-1024x679.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"679\" srcset=\"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/JLWTHOPT7ZA2RPPTR7UIUDBD2Q-1024x679.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/JLWTHOPT7ZA2RPPTR7UIUDBD2Q-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/JLWTHOPT7ZA2RPPTR7UIUDBD2Q-768x509.jpg 768w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/JLWTHOPT7ZA2RPPTR7UIUDBD2Q-60x40.jpg 60w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/JLWTHOPT7ZA2RPPTR7UIUDBD2Q.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-28118\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u00a9 Oliviero Toscani \u2013 Benetton<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Liberation is from 1993. It shows 56 photos of male and female genders in various shapes and colours. While this decade is marked by chic porn and hypersexualization in fashion, Benetton makes the choice to show genital devices with ease, always in this quest for inclusivity and diversity. In the same spirit, in 1996, the \u201cHeart\u201d campaign unveiled three human hearts marked with \u201cwhite\u201d, \u201cblack\u201d, \u201cyellow\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In 1992, the \u201cAlbinos\u201d campaign featured a female albino in a Zulu tribe in South Africa during a virgin girl ceremony. The artist also advocates for fair justice with a 1989 image of two men, black and white, handcuffed, in order to instill the message that everyone should be treated equally in a court.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>The harmony of religions<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In 1986, the photographer highlighted a young Muslim and a young Jewish. Two friends, beyond religions, holding a globe in both hands. The same world. A clich\u00e9 that still resonates today as a celebration of friendship and living together, regardless of the confessions of each.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_28114\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-28114\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-28114\" src=\"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/3BUSXSHSRBAQNPNNBR5VV3BHQE-1024x724.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"724\" srcset=\"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/3BUSXSHSRBAQNPNNBR5VV3BHQE-1024x724.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/3BUSXSHSRBAQNPNNBR5VV3BHQE-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/3BUSXSHSRBAQNPNNBR5VV3BHQE-768x543.jpg 768w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/3BUSXSHSRBAQNPNNBR5VV3BHQE-60x42.jpg 60w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/3BUSXSHSRBAQNPNNBR5VV3BHQE.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-28114\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u00a9 Oliviero Toscani \u2013 Benetton<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>One of the great campaigns of Oliviero Toscani is none other than \u00abPriest and Nun\u00bb, for the fall-winter 1991. Two religious are seen kissing gently, which has not failed to amaze the Church and the Catholic community but also had the effect of bringing immense visibility to Benetton. As some communicators say: in positive or negative, the important thing is that we talk about the brand.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DExfwYuh-_7\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">Voir cette publication sur Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DExfwYuh-_7\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Une publication partag\u00e9e par United Colors of Benetton (@benetton)<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Another picture of HIV<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In 1993, Oliviero Toscani attacks HIV which is destroying many lives. Showing a buttock hit with the stamp \u00abHIV Positive\u00bb, the photograph of the same name is a scandal. She will even be at the heart of a trial after the complaint by HIV-positive people, charging Benetton with \u201chuman dignity\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_28116\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-28116\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-28116\" src=\"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/CPZVCZND6FGFTG67642ZZKZ7Y4-1024x721.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"721\" srcset=\"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/CPZVCZND6FGFTG67642ZZKZ7Y4-1024x721.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/CPZVCZND6FGFTG67642ZZKZ7Y4-300x211.jpg 300w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/CPZVCZND6FGFTG67642ZZKZ7Y4-768x541.jpg 768w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/CPZVCZND6FGFTG67642ZZKZ7Y4-60x42.jpg 60w, https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/CPZVCZND6FGFTG67642ZZKZ7Y4.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-28116\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u00a9 Oliviero Toscani \u2013 Benetton<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>As \u201cPriest and Nun\u201d, the photograph \u201cAids, David Kirby\u201d is emblematic of Benetton\u2019s communication, always on the subject of AIDS. Photographed by Therese Frare and taken over by the brand, the image shows the last moments of David Kirby, ill and on his deathbed, surrounded by his family in 1990. A more than moving photo.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>The message, not the product<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In 1991, the artist once again photographed a baby in the campaign \u00able Nouveau-n\u00e9\u00bb. With a newborn baby still attached by the umbilical cord and maintained by a doctor, photography is intended to be raw and to remove the product to only value the message.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>\u201cI hate artistic photography&#8230;\u201d The photo becomes art when it provokes a reaction in us, whether interest, curiosity or attention\u201d \u2013 Oliviero Toscani<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Milanese photographer left Benetton in 2001 and for 20 years he marked the image of the fashion house and more broadly the history of advertising.<\/strong> His photographs will have the merit, as he wished, to create debate and encourage reflection on societal and social themes. Never has a brand put more emphasis on the evils of our world while celebrating love and living together.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Oliviero Toscani died on 13 January at the age of 82.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Read also: <a href=\"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/mathieu-lehanneur-unveils-his-new-carte-blanche-for-christies\/\">Mathieu Lehanneur unveils his new Carte Blanche for Christie\u2019s<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Featured photo : \u00a9 Oliviero Toscani \u2013 Benetton<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The photographer Oliviero Toscani, known for his campaigns for Benetton, died on 13 January has revealed throughout his career clich\u00e9s marked by a certain provocation but highlighting the diversity of the world and the inequalities and suffering that inhabit it. Return to this legacy of redefining the codes of visual communication.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":552,"featured_media":28112,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_titles_title":"%%post_title%% %%sep%% %%sitetitle%%","_seopress_titles_desc":"The photographer Oliviero Toscani, known for his campaigns for Benetton, died on 13 January has revealed throughout his career clich\u00e9s marked by a certain provocation but highlighting the diversity of the world and the inequalities and suffering that inhabit it. Return to this legacy of redefining the codes of visual communication.","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_robots_imageindex":"","_seopress_robots_snippet":"","_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"none","_seopress_robots_breadcrumbs":"","_seopress_robots_freeze_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_custom_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_fb_img":"","_seopress_social_fb_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_height":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_height":0,"_seopress_redirections_value":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled_regex":"","_seopress_redirections_logged_status":"both","_seopress_redirections_param":"","_seopress_redirections_type":301,"_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[650,656],"tags":[67,533,502],"class_list":["post-28120","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culture-en","category-art-season","tag-art","tag-fashion-2-en","tag-photography"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28120","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/552"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=28120"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28120\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28112"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=28120"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=28120"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/magazine.luxus-plus.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=28120"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}