The third fashion week began Friday in the London capital and ends tonight. Known for its extravagance, its singularity and its audacity, the London Fashion Week does not depart from the tradition. Discover without further ado four shows that have marked the spirits of this last edition, which paid tribute to one of the papesses of British fashion, Vivienne Westwood.
Since last Friday, the streets of London see the most trendy it girls of the capital, which hosts until tonight the latest collections of small and large designers. This Fashion Week of the other side of the Channel has known since its beginning a boundless craze, not only because of its originality but also because it puts forward young designers in the making.
In addition to the long-awaited show by Daniel Lee, the new artistic figure of the House of Burberry, other designers were highly anticipated by journalists, influencers and clients from around the world. Starting with Jonathan Anderson, the artistic creator of Loewe since 2013 and director of his own fashion house.
J.W Anderson : a pop and colorful universe, with a touch of provocation
The new enfant terrible of fashion, after Jean-Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen, is indeed Jonathan Anderson. He opened the third day of London Fashion Week by presenting his latest fall-winter 2023 collection, in collaboration with the artist Michael Clark. Since the creation of his label, the Irish designer uses clothing to evoke emotion, and sees the fabric as a canvas.
His collection consists of looks that are as futuristic as they are flashy, and the meeting of body and setting is apparent at a glance. T-shirts with trendy and pop prints blend into the background. Gone are the flowers as T-shirts: giant phallus, peace sign on fingers covered with paint or even the Coca-Cola logo, these tops are the new trademark of the designer.
The suits designed by Michael Clark and Jonathan Anderson are of a perfectly mastered geometry. We see the same models, declined in several colors such as beige, eggplant or midnight blue.
In terms of cuts, the designer oscillates between structured pieces, rounded, pleated tops, mini skirts and other silhouettes much more fluid and casual. With a touch of humor and lightness, J. Anderson continues to make the fashion world smile, with his explicit messages and unstructured cuts: XXL sleeves that almost touch the knees, fur collars similar to tentacles, sweaters with evocative prints and no shoes on the catwalk.
This latest collection is a tribute to the talent and daring of choreographer Michael Clark, who has been inspiring fashion and his talents for years: “Michael Clark is not only a choreographer of bodies, but of British culture in the broadest sense,” says JW Anderson.
Simone Rocha : Mixing it up for good
Young Irish designer Simone Rocha presented a new mixed collection at Central Hall Westminster, to the melodious sound of folk quartet Lankum.
Sometimes simple and traditional, Simone Rocha’s style took a new turn during this show. Between volume and modernity, the looks that walked the catwalk were a mix of genres and styles, rather well mastered. The designer opted for the mix and match of materials, combining straw, lace and artificial roses, dresses and skirts in tulle.
We could also find creations in crumpled silk, such as blouses, pleated skirts and coat dresses. For the simple and minimalist side, the designer opted for bombers and frock coats in black leather, with the famous touch of the House: pearl patches.
The original detail of the show? Dresses trimmed with straw and sometimes accompanied by red ribbons or sequin ornamentation. A country look, brought up to date.
The transparency was also in this collection with shirts, dresses and pants in tulle. Simone Rocha has finally mixed in the same dresses various styles, materials, and colors, like a patchwork.
Nensi Dojaka : when lingerie invites itself on the catwalk
We no longer need to introduce one of the latest winners of the LVMH prize, the young Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka. She has managed to make a place for herself in the highly coveted world of fashion, thanks in particular to social networks and the biggest it girls, who snatch her creations.
Her concept? Lingerie clothes that can be worn inside and outside. She presented her latest collection at Alva Coachworks, an old converted garage. Bras, brassieres and other underwear are present in almost every look of the show. This new wardrobe puts the Naked dress in the spotlight, revisited from top to bottom and in several shades of colors: pink, nude, black or even flaming red.
The iconic little black dress is transformed into a bodysuit with sequins on the chest and straps, with a lace train-skirt, which lets you see every part of the body.
It must be said that Nensi Dojaka knows perfectly how to sublimate the body of women and their assets. The only thing a little surprising in this collection? We find only summer creations, slightly difficult to wear in cold weather. But hey, a self-respecting fashionista doesn’t shy away from anything. You have to suffer to be beautiful, right?
Richard Quinn: a floral and dreamy collection
Exit latex, hello flowers. The British designer Richard Quinn has made a print and a material his trademarks par excellence. But for his new collection, highly anticipated by the London hype, he decided to put aside latex to focus solely on his favorite print: flowers.
The designer has abandoned the eccentric side to leave room for sophistication. He presented floral and light looks with couture accents. This season, the dress is the main element of the collection. We find on the catwalk sheath dresses, mini, others longer with floral maxi prints. The designer wanted to highlight the theme of marriage, with white bridal models, sometimes complemented by the traditional veil, with more experimental and daring cuts.
Who says imposing print also says surge of ornaments of all kinds: feathers, pearls, flowers, Swarovski crystals …
Some models have paraded arm in arm, displaying matching outfits with a bouquet of flowers in their hands, in harmony with a fairy-tale and spring decor.
We could also detect some fashion inspirations of other Houses as the combination-boots, found in Balenciaga or the mini dresses, made of pearls and noble materials, a nod to the style Balmain.
Read also >FASHION WEEK : WHEN HAUTE JOAILLERIE LIGHTS UP PARIS
Featured photo : © Press
