January 2023 : in parallel to the fashion shows, the Haute Joaillerie Fashion Week and its procession of jewels illuminates Paris. What are the major trends of this season ?
Metamorphosis
The transformability of jewelry is a practice that dates back to the 19th century, but today it is a sign of a true jewelry modernization. If it allows to capture a European clientele more concerned with discretion and less wealthy – Covid and the absence of Chinese clientele oblige – it also opens the door to a freedom of style.
Boucheron illustrates this trend in a spectacular way. Taking up the idea of the double-clip in aquamarines and diamonds, made by its workshops and given to Princess Elizabeth in 1944, the House orchestrates six series of transformable jewelry. The shades of the precious stones are as bright and cheerful as the clothes that Her Majesty loved. The necklaces can be transformed into clips to adorn a collar, a jacket or an ear (3 clips in acidic tones). A double diamond motif attached to a lush leather ribbon necklace becomes a bracelet or barrette. Magnetic. The communication is up to the task : a parade of jewelry on photogenic models and pieces photographed on acidic backgrounds have electrified Instagram.
De Beers also contributes its stone with the Metamorphosis collection, where a ring abandons its precious setting to become a solitaire. Elsewhere, the central part of a sunburst necklace – white, brown and yellow diamonds – set with a superb Fancy Light Yellow pear-shaped diamond weighing more than 10 carats, is detached to become a brooch.
Metaphor
For its part, Cartier does not celebrate metamorphosis but rather metaphor via the third chapter of Beautés du Monde. The perfect arrangement of a bird’s feathers, the graceful movement of a fighting fish’s fins (Splendens necklace), the abstraction of a traditional Japanese motif (Obi necklace), Art Deco graphics, the fluidity of a wearer, the interplay of strong stones in saturated tones or more transparent ones (Lonid bracelet) : Cartier observes and reinvents the richness of nature and the arts to remind us that we must open our eyes and senses to the beauties that surround us.
In the short sequence of Chapter III of the Solstice collection (only 4 pieces), Piaget also pursues its own metaphor of nature. Adorned with two magnificent aquamarines of 21.43 and 6.46 carats, a diamond bird (501 diamonds) takes flight. Its signature is lightness and refinement.
Legendary Stones
The celebration of gemstones can be found in all the great jewelers’ pieces, but this February will have been marked by the 35 pink diamonds acquired by Tiffany from the now closed Argyle mine. Argyle was famous for the beauty of its stones with rare shades. Tiffany’s next high jewelry pieces will gradually reveal them to the public…and especially to collectors who are already scrutinizing these treasures of nature. Chopard presented incredible gems set against a garden of roses. Colored diamonds, rubies, sapphires (a pair of oval-cut Ceylon yellow sapphires weighing 151.19 and 127.70 carats respectively) and tourmalines (including rare Paraíba), as well as emeralds from an exceptional rough, the Chopard Insofu (6,225 carats), will soon sublimate the House’s high jewelry creations.
Craftsmanship
Finally, Dior and Chanel are inspired by the theme of Couture. Through the 77 pieces of Dearest Dior, Victoire de Castellane continues to write the jewelry lexicon of the House with a new interpretation of the subtlety of lace. Stitched diamonds, scattered flowers, tassels and sequins adorn the fragile delicacy of ethereal pieces. Chanel focuses on the craft of dressmaking with the 5 sublime Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles jewelry watches. On oversized watches (the pique-aiguilles is that big cushiony bracelet on which the seamstress pricks her needles), the five inspirations of the collection – quilted bag, tweed jacket, diamond embroidery, jewels and camellia lace – reflect Chanel’s excellence in the craftsmanship. On the camellia lace model, illuminated with pearls and diamonds, the dial is engraved by hand, covered with translucent grand-feu enamel and then the motif is applied using the decal technique.
Jewelry Fashion Week is a dazzling event in the capital and a fascinating expression of the Houses’ storytelling. See you in July for the next installment.
Read also >PARIS FASHION WEEK HAUTE COUTURE: DESIGNERS PARADE THEIR DREAMS
Featured photo : © Press
