Editor’s note: This article was first published in the print edition of the Fall/Winter 2023 issue of Luxus+ magazine. Click here to view the full issue.
Nestled in the heart of the Alpilles, the domain of Baumanière is located at the foot of the famous village of Les Baux-de-Provence. Approaching its eightieth year, this institution has hosted the global elite – including Queen Elizabeth of England in 1965 – and celebrities continue to grace its premises. Adorned with three stars with the arrival of Chef Glenn Viel, Oustau de Baumanière ranks among the finest gastronomic establishments.
If we create an anagram of your name, it spells “adrenaline.” Does that correspond to your personality?
Jean-André Charial: That’s amusing! Indeed, I am a passionate person; I am 78 years old and still filled with enthusiasm and projects. I am beginning to think that all of this could come to an end. My grandfather, Raymond Thuilier, passed away at 97. Ideally, I would like to die in the kitchen.
Do you enjoy working with your family?
My grandfather initiated this venture in 1945, the year of my birth. A sign, perhaps? My daughter Marie-Noëlie was born on December 24, Christmas Eve. She works with me. Now, she has just had a baby and is dedicating all her attention to it. It’s a different generation that does not sacrifice family life as I may have done! My wife Geneviève, 72 years old, oversees the work, takes care of decoration, gardens, the boutique, and more.
You invited Chef Glenn Viel to join Baumanière. In 2020, Oustau de Baumanière regained its third star, initially obtained in 1954, lost in 1990 after holding it for thirty-six years. What does that change for you?
Oustau is almost always fully booked. I don’t know if it’s due to the third star or Glenn’s notoriety. He became a rock star by gaining recognition on Top Chef. He has many friends on social media and has brought in a new clientele. People love Glenn and are happy to take a photo with him. I invested 2.5 million euros to renovate the Oustau kitchen. A gift to Glenn for the third star! He enjoys great freedom to create new dishes and has an extraordinary working environment.
Baumanière is one of the very first Relais & Châteaux. Do you think this concept of a luxury charming boutique hotel with parks and gardens will still exist in fifty years?
Yes, Relais & Châteaux will still exist in fifty years. Clients like being in a family home with character, where they have direct and privileged contact with the owner and chef.
They come and return, forming friendly bonds.
Is the globalization of the Relais & Châteaux chain positive?
People travel and appreciate finding a Relais & Châteaux on the other side of the world. It’s a label that corresponds to specific quality standards. Today, investment funds acquire splendid hotels. They appoint directors who don’t stay in their positions, making the places more impersonal.
You graduated from HEC, and after your time at the Waldorf Astoria in New York, you joined your grandfather Raymond Thuilier to assist in management and administration in 1969. Is it an advantage to have attended HEC?
HEC is a generalist school that broadens the mind. Accounting has always bothered me! I’m not such a good manager; I can read a balance sheet, which is useful… I am more of a creative person. My heart beats more for the kitchen. I have designed hundreds of dishes like “Truffle and Leek Ravioli,” “Red Mullet in Red Wine.” I have created gardens, vegetable gardens, and two vineyards.
Your wine “L’affectif,” based on the principles of biodynamics, is also a creation in your image?
The name of this wine arose from a conversation with Georges Wolinski, who, regarding Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin, said to me: “He runs on emotion.” I retained this descriptor for my cuvée. I like winemakers who are humbler than chefs. They are deeply rooted in the earth. The climate dictates production; it’s a school of modesty.
What is the key to success in having competent and loyal staff?
What matters to them is not having breaks in the middle of the day. In Oustau, the kitchen staff has three days off for 45 hours a week. Servers work from 8 am to 4 pm or in the evening until 11 pm. The era when I received resumes every morning is over. COVID has changed mentalities. One of my employees recently announced, “I’m resigning and going to live in Australia for six months. After that, we’ll see…”
Do you have a gripe? Are good manners disappearing?
Clients show up in T-shirts, shorts, and flip-flops at the gourmet restaurant. They don’t want to be too hot on the terrace! In the evening, men no longer wear jackets. I won’t even mention ties… I am offended by this lack of elegance that has developed over the past decade.
You also complain about the frequent changes in dishes returned under the pretext of allergies?
At the time of booking, we ask if there are any allergies. Some clients send us a very long list of contraindications. At every service, every day, we must make changes. No gluten, no lactose, no nuts, no raw citrus… It’s a new phenomenon that is growing and disrupting our work. In the United States, some restaurants now charge an extra fee for changing a dish. I could consider it at Oustau!
What are your plans after the grand boutique, the chocolate shop, the ceramic workshop, the viennoiserie workshop implemented last year…?
My next project is a new entrance at Baumanière with a view of the rocks. One will have to walk through a large garden amidst scents before arriving at Oustau. Sometimes, I regret closing “La Place,” the bistro in the village that was doing well, but I had staffing problems. The gourmet restaurant, Cabro d’Or, led by Michel Hulin, allows us to reach a broader audience. I am considering creating a “Baumanière Ice Cream Shop” in Les Baux or Maussane. Negotiations are underway…
