La Réserve de Beaulieu, the intimate palace on the Côte d’Azur: to be recommended without reservation!

La Réserve de Beaulieu is a legendary palace by the sea, with an intimate atmosphere. It’s the perfect address to relax far from the bustling scenes. The Michelin-starred Table des Rois, the imperial-sized pool, and the spa contribute to an enchanting stay.

 

Close to Nice, nestled in the charming town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, this world-class five-star gem effortlessly embodies the palace style that defines the grandest Maisons.

 

This iconic and magical address owes its existence to the talented management of Jean-Claude and Nicole Delion, the current owners who also oversee the destiny of the Château Saint Jean, one of the most beautiful hotels in Auvergne.

La Réserve de Beaulieu offers the intimacy of a boutique hotel with its 39 keys. Guests are assured of peace and discretion, far from the frenetic atmospheres of Saint-Tropez hotels. Monégasques come here to escape the helicopter traffic over the Principality.

 

The lounges and Gordon Bennett bar ©DR

 

In this Florentine-inspired villa with its pink facade, everything is beautiful, luxurious, and perfect. There’s no place for ostentation.

 

The interior renovation was carried out by architect Richard Martinet (who also decorated the Crillon and Peninsula hotels in Paris, as well as the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco), blending classicism and modernity.

 

Black-and-white photos of numerous celebrities (Ayrton Senna, Brigitte Bardot, Romy Schneider…) who have frequented the place adorn the walls from the lobby to the rooms. And the fresh orchids, present everywhere, evoke a sense of purity and freshness throughout the establishment.


You feel transported to another era, another century. At any moment, you imagine bumping into Gatsby the Magnificent at the Gordon Bennett bar or on the terrace with its white balustrades. The 180-degree view of the Mediterranean and the sweeping vista over the immense mirror pool give a gentle vertigo.

 

A bit of history … and some anecdotes

Pierre Lottier, a restaurateur from Nice, built a luxury restaurant by the sea. It was 1880… The French Riviera was seeing the European elite parade through. He intended to serve the best fish possible. His idea? To dig a large basin where local fishermen could deposit their catches fresh from the nets. Before long, they called it “the reserve.” Lottier adopted the name: “La Réserve de Beaulieu” was born.

 

The address quickly attracted royalty and the upper bourgeoisie.James Gordon Bennett Junior, an American press magnate, loved it so much that he had a phone installed so he could reserve his table quickly. It was a first for Beaulieu. A century later, the phone number for La Réserve de Beaulieu, still 04 93 01 00 01, attests to this vibrant past.

 

In 1905, the establishment added a dozen prestigious rooms. The success was immediate; it endured until the Great War and returned with the Roaring Twenties.From King Gustaf V to Mistinguett, the crème de la crème of the era gathered here. World War II once again brought an end to this whirlwind of festivities.

 

Owners came and went. A certain Jacques Laroche had grand plans. He elevated La Réserve de Beaulieu to one of the world’s top palaces, wisely entrusting the hotel’s management to Jean Potfer. Upon Potfer’s departure in 1977, the establishment began a long decline. It lasted nearly twenty years until in 1997 Jean-Claude Delion and his wife Nicole awakened the Sleeping Beauty.

 

Their passion, talent, and hard work, seven days a week, have worked wonders.At the dawn of the 21st century, La Réserve de Beaulieu is more radiant than ever.“Each winter, during the closure, the hotel is beautified, enriched with new features. The owner is passionate about every detail,” comments Gregory Vergnes, deputy director of the restaurant. It’s true that here everything is perfect, absolutely perfect.

 

A touch of Dolce Vita under the poolside parasols

 

Michaël Aubert, Pool and Shop Manager, wearing La Réserve de Beaulieu’s iconic t-shirt © Corine Moriou

 

The pool is undoubtedly – along with the chef’s table, of course – one of the centerpieces of La Réserve de Beaulieu. During the summer season, it is the meeting point for lovers of idleness. You get to know your Italian, American, or Brazilian neighbor. A touch of Dolce Vita drifts under the parasols.

 

“I’ve been here for twelve years. It’s hard to have a more beautiful office,” says Michaël Aubert, the beach manager, as he hands us an oversized towel.

 

The size of the pool (20 meters by 10) is somewhat unusual and swimming in the 29-degree heated seawater is a pure delight.

 

Comfortably settled on a deckchair, you can admire the sumptuous panorama: the Grande Corniche, Cap d’Ail, and the promontory known as “La Tête de Chien” overlooking Monaco. Just a step to the side, a few steps down, and you’re on the pier where fishermen try to catch sea bream and bass. Why not take a dip in the sea?

 

The Spa La Prairie, brand new, offers a hammam, sauna, jacuzzi, and a fitness room with state-of-the-art equipment. Cyrielle provides a rejuvenating treatment that includeslymphatic drainage performed with great professionalism. It’s a guilt-free way to take care of your fitness (and figure) … before sitting down for a hearty meal.

 

The Restaurant des Rois, the crown jewel of La Réserve de Beaulieu’s culinary offerings

At the piano, Katalina, of Dutch origin, plays a romantic repertoire for guests of the Gordon Bennett bar, the antechamber to the Restaurant des Rois.

 

Why such a name? For over 130 years, La Réserve de Beaulieu has been delighting the world’s gourmet diners. Just a few months after its opening, a food critic found these admirable words: “La Réserve de Beaulieu is the restaurant of kings and the king of restaurants.”

 

Facing the deep blue sea, the tables are elegantly set on the terrace. As night falls, the illuminated yachts in the distance resemble large cream puffs.

 

The Michelin-starred chef Julien Roucheteau in front of the La Réserve de Beaulieu façade © DR

 

The Michelin-starred Chef Julien Roucheteau, formerly two Michelin stars at the Lancaster in Paris, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2019, bears a heavy responsibility. No missteps are allowed.

 

He masterfully orchestrates flavors with a signature menu of four or six courses, each illustrating a different theme. Freshness is the first theme, with “celeriolis” of fresh goat cheese drizzled with a minty pod juice. A delight. Spirited is the second, a violet artichoke in barigoule. Umami (which means “savory,” “delicious” in Japanese) is the flame-seared red mullet fillet. This fish, cooked at a low temperature, is served with a consommé made from fish bones infused with olive pits. And how can one resist the Creamy, the traditional Grand Marnier soufflé!

 

Throughout the dinner, Wilfried Goutorbe, the head sommelier, finds the perfect wine pairing. Notably, we discover an excellent fresh and fruity 2016 Traminer from Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot, grown biodynamically.

 

Julien Roucheteau’s cuisine can also be enjoyed at Vent Debout, the summer restaurant for relaxed lunches.

 

With a bit of luck, you can reserve one of the two tables at the front of the terrace facing the pier. The view of the Mediterranean is stunning. It’s fun to watch the perfect alignment of children heading out to sea on Optimist boats, chaperoned by their sailing instructors.

 

The “vacation menu” tantalizes the taste buds: Saint-Pierre tartare cured in seawater, octopus tentacles with grilled eggplant and grapefruit, melon bubbles infused with verbena…

 

“I like to offer an identity-driven, tangy cuisine composed of vinegars and citrus fruits, with lighter sauces and precise cooking,” the chef explains, who sources his ingredients from the Nice collective “21 paysans.”

 

Another excellent surprise: La Table. You have to leave La Réserve de Beaulieu to access it via the street. It’s best to arrive at 7:00 PM or 9:00 PM to avoid the crowds.

 

The discovery menu at 26 euros is astonishing. A commendable effort to democratize and introduce the chef’s cuisine! On the plate, tuna tataki with red miso, lean fish fillet with summer pesto, cherry clafoutis. “I come back here every year,” confides the Director of Operations at the Dorchester in London with Alain Ducasse. “It’s one of the best value-for-money places in the region.”

 

Rooms that embody the “3 Cs” – Comfortable, Cozy, and Characterful: the 39 rooms (including suites and villas) embody the 3 Cs.

 

They are decorated in warm tones of beige, honey, and gold, with gray carpeting that evokes the arrival of a school of fish! A nod to the Mediterranean?

 

A Junior Suite with a sea view © DR

 

Styled furniture, plush sofa, and bourgeois bedding: they meet the standards of luxury hotels.

 

Covered in marble from floor to ceiling, the bathrooms are bright and very pleasant to use (with shower and bathtub), and equipped with Guerlain-branded toiletries.

 

And then there are the Queens of La Réserve: two independent villas named Victoria and Mistinguett. The first has a garden, while the second (an upper floor with a private elevator) offers a magnificent view from the terrace. Another way to enjoy your vacation with highly efficient room service.

 

Nearby, two jewels of the French Riviera

The Villa Kérylos and the Villa Ephrussi are two jewels of the French Riviera that shouldn’t be missed. It’s possible to buy a combined ticket for the visits.

 

In Beaulieu, Villa Kérylos, built on the model of ancient Greek residences, has been transformed into a museum. Here, one can discover fifty works by the sculptor Arman exhibited until September 22, 2024. It’s also an opportunity to admire the architecture with the peristyle – a vast patio adorned with columns – the successive rooms, and to stroll through the garden of strawberry trees and olive trees overlooking the Mediterranean.

 

At the entrance of Saint-Jean Cap Ferrat, Villa Ephrussi is a magnificent Venetian-style palace built by Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild, a wealthy heiress of the Belle Epoque. With its nine gardens, this enchanting place makes us dream and travel. The water jets of the main basin, dancing to Mozart’s music, evoke the grand festivities of yesteryear. Good news: the 21st century still maintains the tradition here. Throughout the summer, La Villa Ephrussi’s 2024 Nocturnes celebrate great artists of theater, dance, and music.

 

What we loved:

  • The intimate and family-friendly atmosphere, with staff offering exceptional service, from the valet to the spa manager.
  • The seawater pool heated to 29 degrees (one of the most beautiful on the French Riviera) where you can often swim alone.
  • Three restaurants, each with its own distinct style.
  • A sumptuous breakfast on the terrace with its array of rice pudding and delicious lemon cake.
  • A real old-fashioned key for the bedroom, reminiscent of another era.

 

And if we went?

 

La Réserve de Beaulieu

5 boulevard du Maréchal Leclerc

06310 Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Rooms at 600 euros in low season

Tél : + 33 4 93 01 00 01

www.réservebeaulieu.com

 


Read also>A la découverte de Fortei de Marmi, le Saint-Tropez italien

 

Featured Photo : © La Réserve de Beaulieu

Corine Moriou was a senior reporter for the L'Express group for 15 years. Today, she works as a freelance journalist in the fields of culture, well-being and escape. Never blasé, always ready!

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