For this week of Parisian Haute Couture fashion, great names followed one another to reveal their new collections. After Schiaparelli, Chanel or Gaultier, Luxus plus wanted to highlight three lesser known but very talented designers. Discover their latest looks.
Julien Fournié: the Roaring Twenties in the spotlight
The designer with the two-tone beard has just unveiled his latest Haute Couture collection. He was inspired by the Roaring Twenties to design these new models, light and airy. This season, the French designer chose to highlight the ancestral know-how of Indian embroiderers. Embellishments, made of embroidered sequins, thus sublimate the many dresses and the few suits and overalls paraded on the catwalk.
Between sophistication and bohemian chic, this new collection oscillates between ages and trends. The designer associates for example a blazer with a long dress. A Renaissance style dress, inspired by marquise, then plunges us into the past. The accessories -bands and accumulations of necklaces- recall the 20s. The little surprise of the show? A set of sequined underwear, as chic as worked. This does not prevent the designer from declaring that the whole of his collection was worn without underwear, to give freedom to the woman.
For the final model of the Haute-Couture fashion shows, Julien Fournié created a wedding dress in immaculate white, with a train and extravagant volumes.
Stéphane Rolland: an ode to Brazil
It is at the National Theatre of Chaillot that the French designer presented his spring-summer 2023 collection, called Saudade Meu Amor. As a prelude to the show, a short video showing a sunrise in the bay of Rio, immersed the guests in its sensual atmosphere.
In total, there were 29 looks that walked the catwalk. The dresses, sometimes covering, sometimes low cut in the back, or with touches of transparency, dominate the proposal. Most of the pieces are accompanied by precious ornaments, gold and stones. This gives a hieratic look to the models who parade like works of art. Between the architectural and the artistic side, Stéphane Rolland was right. There was a kind of dreamlike, almost royal side that reigned during this fashion show. The designer also surfed on the trend of the dress-pant combo by presenting a very long white dress, slit, worn on a pant all in sequins. We like it or not, in any case it is very fashionable.
The grand finale took place in the manner of a ceremony. The model advances slowly on a religious music. Like a madonna, the bride is dressed in a cloak with ample volumes, in gold-colored blistered gazar, entirely decorated with sculptures. These symbols pay tribute to the pre-Columbian civilization: “We used a lot of gold leaf for this last dress. All the elements were lacquered and then covered with gold by the interior designer Fabien Barbera. The sculpted elements are made of a particular alloy, all the difficulty was to make a rendering that seems huge, thick and heavy while it is extremely light to wear, “explained the designer.
Alexis Mabille: all in lightness and color
Alexis Mabille presented his latest Haute Couture collection, Color-addict within the walls of the famous auction house Christie’s. The first notes of music resound, we hear the blinking of coins. 36 models are unveiled, including many dresses, long and colorful, in crepe, organza or satin. It is a parade of materials, but also colors: pink, purple, green, red, blue, yellow and salmon. The collection is well named.
Some dresses are reminiscent of togas, inspired by ancient Greece, with very well controlled draping. Like desert princesses, the models wearing these loose, colorful garments almost seem to fly away. Sometimes, shirt-pant sets appear on the catwalk, all in taffeta and sequins.
The favorite of the editors? The silver jumpsuit, all in sequin and whose collar with colorful ornaments draws a flower as descended from Paradise.
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