The Paris Fashion Week ends this Wednesday, designers and brands surpass themselves once again through their virtual presentation. Fashion Week 100% digital obliges. A look back at this fashion week that played the prolonged in an exceptional way.
This season, for the Autumn-Winter women’s collection, health crisis, parties, travel and surrealism are on the agenda…
A pervasive pandemic atmosphere
Among all the presentations and fashion shows that were unveiled during the year, one observation stands out: some artistic directors preferred to make viewers forget about the health crisis by bringing them into a positive, optimistic and hopeful universe, while others were keen to stay in the mood of the crisis while unveiling sublime lines.
Among the latter is Givenchy whose virtual show takes place in the large, empty hall of the Paris Défense Arena, through a dark, dank, subterranean world, crowned with metal walkways, where there is little hope.
The models can be seen walking around with a lively and nervous step, some of them have their faces completely masked with a balaclava. In the wardrobe, long leather coats or oversized fake furs, massive shoes are omnipresent. However, the brand did unveil a few brighter pieces in the midst of this darkness: dresses in sequins and feathers appeared at the end of the show, as a reminder of the past.
In the same atmosphere, the Dior, fashion show took place in Versailles, not in a Versailles that shines with a thousand lights, but on the contrary in a Versailles without lights, at night. The place is staged in such a way as to remind us that the world of culture, spectacle and visits is quite non-existent nowadays. For example, some of the gallery walls are covered with thorns.
The mannequins walk through the darkened castle in a sinister and surreal atmosphere, accompanied by gloomy “music”. Black eyes, thorn-strapped ballerinas or half-Victorian, half-punk shoes, the looks are mixed. Wise schoolgirl outfits (Claudine collars and socks) are mixed with more shocking details like thigh-high boots or massive black leather boots. Like Givenchy, the end of the show is illuminated by a few beautiful, steamy and colourful dresses.
“For the past year, I’ve been thinking about this image: nature standing still while the princess sleeps, waiting for deliverance,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director.
A desire to travel
Whether in the Givenchy or Balmain wardrobe, all types of travel bags are present: backpacks or classic suitcases in XXL sizes. This is a clear reminder of the growing desire to get away from it all.
Travel is also the central theme of Balmain’s presentation, which features over 10 minutes of air and space travel. In this context, the models parade on aeroplane wings, on landing strips, accompanied by their suitcases and bags, determined to leave.
As in real life, the planes are at a standstill, on the tarmac or parked under a hangar.
As an ending, Olivier Rousteing finally chooses to transpose these models dressed in gold and silver into space, far from the virus and its crisis.
A desire for festivity
Another frustration of the health crisis? The party, the nightlife, the world, of course.
Chanel invites us into the walls of Castel, a veritable institution of Parisian nights, on rue Princesse, in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
The fringed models delicately remove their large coats before going on stage in the cabaret. The atmosphere is intimate and subdued, just what the artistic director wanted for a sensual line, punctuated with skiwear and winter references, as well as a Parisian touch.
“I don’t know if it’s the spirit of the times, but I wanted something warm and lively,” said Virginie Viard about the collection.
Finally, thhe Lanvin fashion house reflected this frustration of festivity in its presentation. In a 3-minute clip, a group of young revellers, including the Essonne rapper Luv Resval and the singer Eve, are partying in a luxury Parisian hotel. The festivities take place in a hotel room, by the pool or in a reception room, to the music of Gwen Stefani Rich Girl.
Read also > FASHION WEEK 2021 : TIME FOR THE 90’S
Featured photo: © Chanel[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]
