Domaine de Rochevilaine is a beacon for Relais & Châteaux. With its breathtaking sea views, top-class gastronomy and multi-award-winning marine spa, it’s the ideal place to recharge your batteries in Brittany.
Force 6 on our arrival in the middle of winter at Domaine de Rochevilaine in Morbihan. The thunder rumbles, the wind gusts, the waves crash violently against the black rocks. The old stone walls of this renowned hamlet, the flagship of Relais & Châteaux in Brittany, offer a delightful sense of protection.
By early morning, the storm had passed and we missed the deafening sound of the sea. It was magical! It’s hardly surprising that this luxury hotel estate with 34 rooms (including five suites and the three private manor houses) overlooking the sea is fully booked in winter. Rochevilaine has its loyal guests, exhilarated by the powerful experience of nature unleashed in a voluptuous cocoon.
Perched on the tip of Pen Lan, twenty minutes from Vannes, Domaine de Rochevilaine enjoys an exceptional panorama. This 1.5-hectare rocky peninsula in the commune of Billiers takes its name from its position between the Vilaine estuary and the ocean. At the end of the world, out of time, it’s the ideal place to take a break, contemplate the landscape, dream, meditate, create…
Rochevilaine is the envy of French palaces, with 300 meters of private seafront directly overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. There are no paths or roads between your bedroom windows or terrace and the sea. Who could ask for more?
Through the Portal de la Vérité (a monumental 13th-century porch), you’ll discover a hamlet of historic mansions surrounded by majestic trees, palms, giant ferns, cacti and beds of roses and hydrangeas. Not all the houses are from the same period, but the unusual ensemble, like no other, has panache and charm. It was a daring move!
Stone by stone, Domaine de Rochevilaine was born
A little history. Seventy years ago, this war-wounded stretch of moorland was virtually untouched, devoid of vegetation – in short, rather sinister.
Henri Dresch, an Alsatian industrialist and founder of the iconic “Dresch motorcycles” brand, fell in love with Brittany. In the early 50s, he acquired the large rock of Pen Lan, with its former guardhouse and square house. But the surrounding area was a vast, empty wasteland.
A visionary, he scouted all over Brittany for ruined buildings to buy. He had them dismantled, carved, sculpted and reassembled stone by stone on the tip of this piece of land. “A practice that resembles that of the Americans, who bought castles in France and rebuilt them in their own country. This would no longer be possible today with the coastal law,” notes Cécile Nouail Jaquet, Rochevilaine’s current director.
The most spectacular achievement is the Manoir Renaissance, entirely restored in 1965 using stones from the Manoir de Lieuzel in Pleucadeuc.
Henri Dresch prefers the awakening to the sleep of stones. Instead of oblivion, enhancement. Instead of an exact historical replica, he sets the scene. The calvary, Tanit stone, stoup and fountains, lions and winged dragons adorn the gardens, enveloping Rochevilaine in a mysterious aura.
Prestigious guests such as Georges Pompidou, Philippe de Rothschild, Edward VIII and his wife Wallis Simpson were received. Takeover proposals poured in; Baron Bic, who loved sailing and Brittany, was turned down.
A long illness took the life of Henri Dresch in 1978, and the establishment experienced a number of ups and downs until the arrival of Doctor Jean-Pierre Liégeois. Fascinated by the site’s telluric and magnetic environment, this wellness enthusiast had the good idea of building a balneotherapy center. The first curists flocked.
Bertrand Jaquet embellishes this unique heritage and passes on the baton
In 1997, after managing a major hotel group in France and abroad, Bertrand Jaquet took the helm of Rochevilaine. It was love at first sight! A businessman, but above all a man of passion, he developed, renovated and embellished this unique hotel and gastronomic heritage. Rochevilaine became a beacon for France’s Relais & Châteaux.
Although the Domaine is mainly frequented by Parisians and customers from Western France, it remains an elegant hotel that cultivates beauty and naturalness, never ostentatiousness. You don’t come here to see and be seen, but to recharge your batteries and admire a breathtaking view. Rochevilaine embodies traditional values, an art of living that is a hallmark of French civilization.
Already owner of a family business, Bertrand Jaquet has entrusted his wife Michèle and daughter Marie with the management of the Grand Hôtel de Solesmes, opposite the abbey, famous for its Gregorian chants in the Sarthe region.
In 2024, Bertrand Jaquet, 75, handed over the running of this exceptional landmark to his daughter Cécile Nouail Jaquet, 43, and her son-in-law Maxime Nouail, 40. My father entrusted us with the keys, but he keeps a spare,” smiles Cécile. I’ve been immersed in this environment since I was a child, and my husband started out here as a clerk. Today, he is the Chef of a superb gastronomic restaurant.
A smooth family transition, with the patriarch keeping a watchful eye on current developments. One of Rochevilaine’s secrets is to question itself, innovate and invest between 300,000 and 500,000 euros a year.
A new phase of life has begun for the owners. Last November, Cécile and Maxime welcomed Marcel, a child adopted from Lebanon … after many administrative twists and turns. We have no doubt that his parents will pass on their passion for Rochevilaine to their son.
The Aqua Phénicia Spa is one of the highlights of a successful stay
From the reception area, you can see the large swimming pool and deckchairs facing the sea: an irresistible call to relaxation. The Aqua Phénicia spa is undoubtedly one of the highlights of a successful stay. In stormy weather, it’s a delight to take refuge here.
In memory of the Phoenicians who came to Pen Lan to trade in tin, this award-winning 1,300 m2 spa has been named Aqua Phénicia. Intimate, with original treatments, it has nothing to envy the thalassotherapies in the area. It’s true that Bertrand Jaquet had a head start: in 1997, he was the first hotelier in France to create a spa, and registered the name “marine spa”.
Which massage to choose? Karen offers the perfect Phoenician treatment on a warm stone bed covered with a mattress of hay and plants. The massage lasts forty minutes and is followed by friction with an essence chosen according to the zodiac sign. This is the protocol of the late René Noël, a renowned phytotherapist who became a close friend of the Liègeois doctor.
Do you have a sudden craving for oysters at 4 o’clock in the afternoon? The Bar à Coquillages, opened in 2020 and set up right next to the reception area, is the place to be. You can also enjoy langoustines, clams, whelks, cockles, mussels and razor clams, as well as fish soups and lobster bisques.
This ingenious concept caters for small hungers between 11am and 7pm. It breaks the afternoon slump when you don’t want to leave the soft cocoon of the hotel. Today: No sport!
Around a large horseshoe-shaped counter, ten people can perch on the stools. Open to outside guests who appreciate the bistro atmosphere, the Bar is a great place to chat. A moment of conviviality which, of course, has nothing in common with the sailors’ bars of Cherbourg.
High-end creative cuisine orchestrated by Maxime Nouail
The gastronomic restaurant resembles a boat, forcing us to leave terra firma and set sail. The three adjoining rooms offer a breathtaking view of seagulls and gulls flying over a stormy sea. In the distance, Dumet Island can be seen. With fifty meters of panoramic glass, you’re guaranteed a table with a sea view.
Cécile Nouail, Maitre de Maison, loves nothing more than watching over the dining rooms, guessing a guest’s wishes and placing orders at just the right moment. And it’s true, her service is second to none. “She’s the queen of salt-crusted sea bass,” says Mickaël Bazin, 45, who is in charge of the hotel business and a loyal fan of Bertrand Jaquet, who learned his trade in London.
Maxime Nouail has ruled the kitchen since 2014. He rarely treads on the dining room’s two-hundred-year-old parquet floor. His language is what happens on the plate. If there are any compliments, it’s his wife who gets them.
With his 18-strong brigade, this talented chef delights us with a creative, gourmet cuisine featuring the great classics we love to find at a gourmet table. “I offer a cuisine that is sincere, inventive and chic, 75% of which is made from local seafood products, including abandoned species that I bring back up to date. I put into it my love of my country, of local suppliers, of the people I work with, of this wonderful place,” explains the Plumelec native.
Trained under Patrice Caillaud at Rochevilaine, Maxime toured the world’s top restaurants from 2010 to 2012, including Château de la Treyne in the Lot region and Christopher Coutanceau (whom he says he really likes) in La Rochelle, before returning to Billiers.
We’d be remiss if we didn’t enjoy an aperitif curled up in the club armchairs of the Salon Saint-André. You’ll be able to discover a Breton whisky such as Galaad de Ploërmel or Naguelann de Languenan, accompanied by subtle appetizers concocted by Maxime Nouail that reveal the finesse of his culinary art.
If, after reading the menu, you’ve opted for a pot lobster, it will be presented to you alive. Enjoyed as a main course, it weighs no less than 1.3 kilos, but if you’re the only one ordering it, the house has small pieces weighing a minimum of 600 grams! With its coraillée sauce and tagliatelle, it’s a delight. Definitely the best lobster you’ve ever tasted.
So you see, the star of Rochevilaine is this decapod crustacean. A “Lobster Menu” is staged in five acts. “From head to tail to claws, we use everything, with the lobster shell ice cream being the highlight”, comments the Maître Cuisinier de France , whose idea has since been copied in other establishments.
The menu features wild abalone in sparkling butter, Tellen Du pork jus, celery and buckwheat declension, and roasted Quiberon scallops with carrots and bard foam. The roasted Mesquer squab with its cromesquisite leg, beet declension and licorice jus is a departure from the iodized repertoire. A truly exquisite dish.
The sommelier, Jean-Marc Boitaud, a twenty-year veteran of the house, surprises us with bottles such as Dantelezh, a Chardonnay 2023 from Marie Devigne and Guillaume Hagnier, or Morties Jamais Content from Pic Saint Loup 2022.
With such good advice, we can’t resist the cheese platter made exclusively with the complicity of small Morbihan producers. Yet another feat!
A late-night privilege: the sommelier takes us on a tour of the Rochevilaine cellars. In the middle of the garden, a steep staircase leads up to a former bunker. Here, hundreds of grands crus find ideal conditions for ageing.
Surrounded by a remarkable team of cooks and waiters, Maxime Nouail delights us with a delicate cuisine full of personality. Frankly, it’s hard to understand why Michelin won’t award Rochevilaine the star it lost in 2021 during the Covid period. Verdict on March 31, 2025.
Rochevilaine’s rooms, suites and manor houses take you around the world
Each room has its own unique ambience, depending on whether it’s in the Renaissance Manoir, the Manoir de l’Orient, the Maison du Vicomte, the Closerie des Mines or the Château de granit et de verre. A feat of inventiveness, the fruit of year after year of hard work by Bertrand Jaquet.
Don’t hesitate to ask for advice when booking, as the choice is so dizzying.
The Admiral’s room looks great, with its navy table, portholes on closet doors and a telescope pointing out to sea. You can imagine yourself on the Normandie during the Transatlantic era.
Manoir de l’Orient’s Chandernagor and Pondicherry rooms are as sought-after by guests as the counters they’re named after were coveted in their day. Luminous silks, antique furniture and objects from mythical India transport occupants to another world.
The Anita Conti apartment, decorated with black-and-white photos, pays tribute to the great oceanographer and photographer. A favorite among design enthusiasts, Le Loft des Artistes, with its 90 m² of waterfront space and 10-metre opening onto the sea, is a vast space where light and the sea are the major elements of the décor.
Our favorite? The Rivages room in the Manoir Renaissance. It’s spacious and warm, with alcoves and large and small sofas that invite you to isolate yourself and observe the panorama. In the clawfoot bathtub, you can bathe while gazing at the sea. A huge photo reminds us of the local people fishing on foot in boots at low tide. The decor features authentic bouchot mussel stakes and lobster traps. The wooden terrace resembles the deck of a boat, inviting you to relax when the storm has passed.
Artists such as Bénabar, Michel Jonasz, Jacques Dutronc, Jean-Louis Aubert and Clovis Cornillac have dropped anchor for a night or more at Domaine de Rochevilaine. When will a song be dedicated to this legendary hamlet?
What we also liked
- Rochevilaine’s legendary breakfasts, available on four menus including the “Armor” with oysters and octopus flan.
- The thirty-minute walk along the customs path, passing by the Lovers’ Beach, then the megalithic path where the Crapaud dolmen takes pride of place.
- The red bicycles, the color of Dresch motorcycles, available to customers for touring the countryside.
- The excellent book “Sous les vents de Pen Lan, le Domaine de Rochevilaine”, superbly written by François Cuel, traces the history of the estate right up to the present day, and is on sale on site.
How about a visit?
Rochevilaine Estate
Pointe de Pen Lan
56 190 Billiers
Tel: +33 (0)2 97 41 61 61
Website: www.domainederochevilaine.com
Room from 264 euros early booking
Suite from 532 euros early booking
In the restaurant, a la carte or different menus:
Three-course market menu served at lunchtime (except Sundays and public holidays): 46 euros
Three-course seasonal menu: 88 euros
Seven-course Confiance menu: 123 euros
Five-course lobster menu: 123 euros
Read also > Our top tips for a cultural weekend in Marseille
Featured Photo: After the storm, fine weather at Domaine de Rochevilaine in Billiers, Morbihan DR
