Institutionalized in the royal court of England by the British dandy George Brummell at the end of the nineteenth century, the costume has evolved with its time without ever leaving the men’s dressing rooms. Sometimes strict, sometimes streetwear, sometimes effortless, the jacket/pants set knows how to reinvent itself for the delight of its aficionados.
You see it in the business districts as well as in the trendy neighbourhoods. Once reserved for mature men, the costume is now adopted by all ages and social classes. If it is sometimes reworked with great originality, or even completely offbeat, the traditional costume remains at the top of fashion, a vector of beautiful elegance and an assured allure.
The catwalks, artistic scene where the costume has the leading role
Once again, the men’s costume galvanized the catwalks during the fall-winter 2025-2026 fashion week. For the next season, the fashion houses have worked these pieces in a more empirical way while keeping the traditional fundamentals of this set. Always elegant and sophisticated, the costumes do not hesitate to take an experimental approach.
Louis Vuitton, whose collection was created in four hands by the artistic director Pharrell Williams and his stylist friend Nigo, has married its modernized archives to Japanese influences, with some references to workwear. Dolce & Gabbana has, as usual, worked the suit in a great Italian refinement. On the Dior side, Kim Jones was inspired by the H collection designed by Christian Dior for the Haute Couture of winter 1954-1955, with cuts as wide as close to the body and crossed blazers.
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At Emporio Armani, the suit is worn comfortably and reveals an elegance carried by prestige fabrics, three-piece sets with tie and ample lines, for a less tapered look. Santiags and plaid shirts accompany the straight Prada suits, which are distinguished by bold textiles and colors like a green past and brown leather.
How to choose the right costume?
From a festive event to everyday work, the costume accompanies every moment of life. And if there is a crucial point not to forget when you buy a set, it is the quality. Turning to high-end materials and perfectly crafted cuts is the key to keep a suit for several years and, above all, feel good throughout the day/ evening.
The choice of a costume cut is also important. The curved pieces will stretch out the silhouette and bring a neat side. Be careful not to choose slim sets not flattering for the silhouette, less comfortable and quite outdated in terms of trend. The fitted, or regular, is the master cut for a first suit or to ensure a flawless. Neither too loose nor too tight, the look is suitable for all morphologies and knows how to adapt to professional as well as less conventional circumstances. We also mention the ample suit, as retro as modern, which offers more freedom of movement. More unstructured, the outfit allows a casual look chic but also ultra elegant according to the accessories and natural materials chosen.
The latter are therefore essential for a chic and fitting suit. In winter, we turn to wool, a great classic with perfect fall. The cotton is less structuring but remains very pleasant to wear, while its derivative, gabardine (a very tight weave of cotton threads) is ideal for protection from the weather in mid-season. We also count the velvet and tweed that promise an original and offbeat silhouette. Note that silk is always mixed with other materials. In summer, the essential linen remains a safe bet. And to recognize the structure of a suit, the terms “Super” (between 80’s and 260 S) indicate the correct outfit of a piece. The lower the number, the thicker and stiffer the fabric.
It remains only to choose its color according to the use (light green, pastel purple, navy blue with stripes, sand…), without forgetting to dwell on details such as buttons, lapels and pockets. Finally, the accessories are crucial to give her silhouette a sharp style. Scarf with fringes finish, brooches, ties of character, shoes waxed, shirts impeccable… A classic suit can sail on a couture sphere thanks to some well thought out details.
Read also: 5 men’s trends for Autumn-Winter 2025-2026
Featured photo: © Suitsupply
