It’s back to school time, and with it the big trend for September 2024: preppy style. Straight out of American schools in the 60s, preppy fashion is once again being adopted by the younger generation, offering a boulevard for certain brands rooted in this trend.
While 90 French schools are experimenting with a single outfit for all pupils, a style directly inspired by schools is back in the spotlight more than ever. After exposed lingerie, baby doll silhouettes and the glamorous mob wife, it’s now the turn of the preppy trend to galvanise fashionistas. This wardrobe has its origins in the 1960s, in America’s top fashion schools: a fairly strict dress code, but marked by a certain elegance, propelled by America’s young golden elite. The name preppy comes from the word prep school. Over the decades, influenced by pop culture, preppy style has spread beyond the gates of universities to the trendiest streets of fashion capitals and up the catwalks of the biggest luxury houses.
The Gossip Girl phenomenon
In the 1980s, author Lisa Birnbach published The Official Preppy Handbook, a manual describing the history of the American school wardrobe, its social representation and the cultural aspects of this global lifestyle. No. 1 for 38 weeks on the New York Times bestseller list in 1980, the book was a real success!
This aesthetic was later popularised by fashion icons such as Princess Diana, with her university sweatshirts and bombers and her sensible cardigans, the character Cher Horowitz in the 1995 film Clueless, and the sexy appropriation of Britney Spears in the 1999 video Baby One More Time.
But the real modern turn for preppy style came in 2007, with the release of the iconic series Gossip Girl. Chronicling the lives of Manhattan’s young elites and heirs, with dramas of friendship and love, the lavish lives of ultra-privileged students and the revelations of the mysterious Gossip Girl blog, the series is still a benchmark for preppy fans.
At the Constance Billard and St Jude public schools in the series, uniforms are de rigueur. With checked skirts, high socks, striped ties and chic blazers, the preppy spirit is more democratised than ever, but above all adapted to the trends of the decade. Schoolgirl Serena van der Woodsen, played by Blake Lively, adopts it in a relaxed, cool way, loosening her ties and wearing her shirts more informally. Blair Waldorf, played by Leighton Meester, is much more moderate and wise, but goes to great lengths to customise her uniforms to stand out from the crowd, in particular with her emblematic headbands. Jenny Humphrey, played by Taylor Momsen, adds rock’n’roll touches to her outfits.
The success was immediate, and the preppy style rose to the top of the fashion world. Millennials are snapping up this fashionable wardrobe. It also reflected the desire to look like a certain wealthy caste, a sign of social belonging.
At the end of the 2010 decade, hit series such as Elite (2018) and Gossip Girl, New Generation (2021) brought preppy back into the spotlight. A rediscovery for Gen Z, won over by a certain nostalgia that led to the great comeback of the trend in the 2000s. Preppy is directly linked to the buzz around old money and academia styles, which are generating a huge number of views on the networks. Not to mention the influence of it-girls like Gigi Hadid and Hailey Bieber, whose looks are scrutinised and copied.
Classic style and timeless pieces
Unlike some fashion trends that are more difficult to wear or too short-lived to be a permanent fixture in fashionistas’ wardrobes, preppy is made up of classic, high-quality pieces with impeccable cuts. Blazers, pleated skirts, checked prints, woollen cardigans, button-down shirts, perfectly pressed blouses, trench coats… these are all easy-to-pair garments that can easily be found in any wardrobe.
Accessories are just as important. Socks are high, moccasins are the order of the day, structured bags are a must, a tie adds a touch of tayloring and ballet flats and babies are recommended.
Among the leading preppy brands are Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, two American giants whose collections have always been representative of this style. More recently, Miu Miu and Celine have made a name for itself with its trendy, schoolgirl pieces. Some Burberry classics, notably the trench coat, and Coach, are also approved. Claudie Pierlot, Max Mara, Brooks Brothers and even Lacoste are among the more affordable but well-made labels offering a wide range of preppy clothes.
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Front page photo: © Tommy Hilfiger
