In Mumbai, India, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented the new Dior Fall-Winter 2023 ready-to-wear collection. Colors, beauty, dreaminess, know-how and traditions were at the appointment.
The artistic director of the House of Dior chose an emblematic and historical place in Mumbai for this fashion show: the Gate of India. Like a metaphor, this place full of history brought guests and spectators into a unique universe that will leave a lasting impression.
This grandiose parade staged a flamboyant encounter of French know-how with the tradition and preciousness of Indian treasures. It is in a luxuriant, dreamlike and poetic decor that the models slowly invaded the catwalk, decorated with thousands of colorful flowers and small candles.
When India meets France
The soundtrack of the fashion show is a live musical performance given by an orchestra, which reveals traditional Indian music and songs, for an even more complete and sensory immersion. Because yes, here, several senses are awakened. The sight, with its nuances of bright and intense colors, the hearing with these Indian songs and its soothing melodies, and the smell with the incense that almost reaches the nostrils of those who follow the parade behind their screen. Finally, we want to use the touch to discover under the palm of our hands these shiny and luxurious fabrics, inspired by Indian fashion.
The casting of the catwalk is the image of the country and its culture: the Indian models are numerous on the catwalk, while the stars from the country occupy the first rows.
The show begins with neutral tones such as black, white and beige. But the rest is a real festival of shimmering colors: green, purple, pink, yellow, orange, magenta, blue …
Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the pantone of trendy colors, reinterpreting them in her own way and while delivering a real range of bright colors.
This collection exudes lightness, elegance, royalty, but at the same time simplicity, if we refer to the cuts.
Some looks are all in sobriety. Like these long and fluid black skirts, accompanied by a white tank top, these strapless dresses with a flared and draped skirt, simple, but perfectly executed.
The suits, fluid and comfortable, are sometimes monochrome, sometimes colored, tie & dye or with the famous print specific to the House of Dior: the Toile de Jouy.
Place for layering
Here and there, asymmetrical draped dresses, embroidered saris redesigned, printed dresses with floral motifs, completely decorated with sequins, make us think of real paintings.
However, it is difficult to project oneself into the winter season with most of these outfits, which are more suitable for an…Indian summer. Some clothes could however face the autumn breeze or the cold of winter, as the timeless trench coat, small and long quilted down jackets that echo the Lady Dior, as well as colored wool sweaters, which are not refusal in these grayish times …
The layering is also in order in this show. As with this long dress under a fluid and wide shirt, this sleeveless down jacket covered with a trench coat or these long shirts, accompanied by skirts and pants.
The accessories are as sober as elegant and without artifice. Almost all the models wear a triple pearl necklace, synonymous with class and refinement.
Worlds and fashions
This journey on the road to India, initiated by Dior and its artistic director, is no accident. Maria Grazia Chiuri follows in the footsteps of her predecessors, Gianfranco Ferré in 1997 and John Galliano in 1998, who were inspired by the country of Gandhi to deliver tribute collections.
In addition, for over 20 years, the French House has forged ties with this country of a thousand colors and particularly with the supplier Chanakya International, a workshop dedicated to know-how. For several years now, the Italian designer has maintained close relations with the Chanakya School of Craft, which she has had the opportunity to visit on several occasions, to meet the embroiderers and discover how the work of goldsmiths has been passed on to them. This is not the first time these little hands have touched Dior clothes. They have already been invited several times to work on collections.
Dior and its workshops travel around the world to make guests experience and discover enchanted and unknown worlds, while exploiting historical and sumptuous places. After the Egyptian pyramids of Giza, the House dropped its bags at the foot of the Gate of India. The next destination will have the difficult task of competing with mythical destinations.
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