Fashion Week ended in London on February 22 after five days of shows. Two iconic brands were particularly noted for their absence: Burberry and Victoria Beckham.
For this London Fashion Week, 37 public shows were scheduled, including established brands and regulars of this event, presenting both women’s and men’s collections. Burberry is planning a show in London on March 11, outside of Fashion Week, and Victoria Beckham has already given a taste by unveiling her Fall-Winter 2022-23 pre-collection at the brand’s London headquarters in mid-January.
Mixing genres at Edward Crutchley
The shows opened with Edward Crutchley, who was not lacking in panache, with his openwork skinny cuts and androgynous elegance. Edward Crutchley always distinguishes himself by his ability to mix different eras in sharp creations, between knitwear and overlays.
Gothic sensuality at Simone Rocha
At Simone Rocha, we find semi-sheer nightie dresses worn over twisted micro-sweaters cut like bras, with black tights studded with beads. Simone Rocha’s romanticism becomes darker, with gothic and Japanese inspirations.
Transparency game for Nensi Dojaka
The 2021 LVMH Prize winner, Nensi Dojaka, presents garments with symmetrical and graphic constructions where one can read her training in lingerie. The exacerbated sensuality and the power of very beautiful cuts make the pieces very desirable. “I have recently created dresses in this spirit for celebrities, and wanted to continue to explore this genre, while mixing it with other possibilities” explains the designer.
Sexy suggested for the Erdem label
At Erdem, floral lace is superimposed on sequins and embroidery. We also find strict suits in the Marlene Dietrich, pleated sets like Fortuny and very worked nuisettes. “I wanted to revive, in a more ghostly way, a cabaret of the 1920s, by claiming its sexual subtext: a bra is assumed over a dress” comments Erdem Moralioglu, inspired by the “fluidity of genres” of the images of the Austrian photographer Madame d’Ora (1881-1963).
Read also > A LOOK BACK AT THE HIGHLIGHTS OF MILAN FASHION WEEK
Featured photo : © Erdem
