Off-season, Saint-Tropez reveals its intimate side. From cozy hotels to legendary terraces and dreamy restaurants, here’s my guide to an elegant, poetic, and authentic Saint-Tropez.
An iconic village, Saint-Tropez is without equal. Unique in the world, it reminds us of the charm of the 1950s when Roger Vadim was filming “And God Created Woman.” It also reminds us that life is fragile: Brigitte Bardot is no longer with us. She lived in seclusion at La Madrague, devoted to animal welfare, far from the excesses of the jet set and the bling-bling atmosphere. “On the deserted beach. Shells and crustaceans…” These lyrics resonate here with a particular melancholy.
Those nostalgic for the New Wave and the carefree years prefer to stay in Saint-Tropez outside the summer madness. That doesn’t mean they shy away from the events that punctuate the calendar: Chefs Celebrate Producers (early May), La Bravade (mid-May), The La Ponche Literary Prize (late May), Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez (late September), Paradis Porsche (October), or La Grande Braderie (late October).
For it is indeed off-season that Saint-Tropez reveals its intimate side. The sun is gentle, the water is a pleasant temperature, and the restaurant terraces breathe. The days stretch out slowly between dips in the sea, impromptu lunches with your feet in the sand, strolls through flower-lined alleyways, and cocktails savored in the golden light of the sunset.
Here is my selection of spots and beautiful getaways to discover an intimate, authentic, and poetic Saint-Tropez—in slow-life mode.
Find a refuge in a dream hotel… away from the hustle and bustle of Saint-Tropez
A new generation of Saint-Tropez hospitality, AREV—meaning “sun” in Armenian—lives up to its name. Just a few minutes from Place des Lices, this boutique hotel immediately evokes a special feeling: that of being welcomed.
Set around Place des Oliviers, the property evokes a mini Provençal village where the pace naturally slows down. The gourmet restaurant The Strand and the champagne lounge celebrate a refined and sun-drenched Mediterranean. The sole, beautifully carved by server Pierre, is followed by a pear tarte tatin. Evenings sometimes take on the air of a suspended interlude when singer Myriam Abel emotionally revisits Édith Piaf.
We love the slightly theatrical decor conceived by Madrid-based designer Luis Bustamante. The various spaces and the 35 rooms and suites blend deep blues and vibrant reds in a style reminiscent of the Hamptons reimagined under the Provençal sun.
Around the heated pool, conversations slow down. A few guests try their hand at padel, while others hop on a chic electric bike or set off in a Méhari to explore the surrounding beaches.
AREV Saint-Tropez — starting at 630 euros per room in low season.
A member of Relais & Châteaux, La Bastide de Saint-Tropez elegantly cultivates the art of the discreet retreat. It welcomes loyal guests seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of Saint-Tropez. Here, there is no intrusive music: only birdsong and the rustling of palm trees accompany the days.
Nestled among olive trees, cypresses, and bougainvilleas,this oasis of peace centers around a manor house and four light-filled Provençal farmhouses. The 26 rooms blend shades of ecru, ochre, and sunny yellow in a classic and refined style. The delicate works of ceramicist Olivia Cognet lend a unique charm to this high-end retreat.
At lunchtime, the terrace of the L’Isoletta restaurant welcomes us beneath white parasols. Chef Luca Binaschi celebrates the generous, Mediterranean spirit of Italy: porcini mushroom risotto, octopus alla Luciana, delicately grilled sea bass… An authentic cuisine that perfectly complements the atmosphere of the place.
La Bastide de Saint-Tropez belongs to that category of hotels that transcend trends without ever losing their soul.
La Bastide de Saint-Tropez — starting at 518 euros per room in low season.
Just twenty minutes from Saint-Tropez, Lily of the Valley seems suspended between sky and sea, in the protected site of Cap Lardier. Below, Gigaro Beach unfurls its golden sand facing the sparkling Mediterranean.
Designed by Philippe Starck, this hotel with its poetic name draws its inspiration from the myth of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Raw earth, light wood, natural leather, polished marble: everything here harmonizes with the surrounding nature.
From the rooms to the spacious suites with private pools, the bohemian-chic vibe is instantly captivating. At the Vista restaurant, sunsets become a true spectacle. It’s a place you’ll want to linger, a blanket draped over your shoulders, gazing at the last amber reflections on the sea.
Chef Vincent Maillard’s (formerly of Ducasse) cuisine subtly highlights Mediterranean flavors. Special mention goes to the pecan soufflé, which has become almost iconic.
But what sets Lily of the Valley apart is its cutting-edge approach to wellness. This true sanctuary of well-being spans 2,000 square meters and features a 25-meter pool. Fitness programs, nutrition, anti-aging treatments: celebrities and business executives come here to recharge discreetly under the watchful eye of an experienced team and nutritionist Jacques Fricker. Open year-round, October is already nearly fully booked!
Lily of the Valley — starting at 760 euros per room in low season.
Stroll through Saint-Tropez, do some shopping, take it all in…
The marina (and fishing port) is the beating heart of Saint-Tropez. In the morning, the air has an almost unexpected freshness. In the historic La Ponche district, silence reigns. Shutters open slowly, footsteps echo on the cobblestones. On the tiny Place aux Herbes, fishermen are still unloading their catch while the flower, fruit, and vegetable stalls fill the nearby alleys with their scent.
At Sénéquier, the port’s flamboyant red institution, one happily treats oneself to breakfast accompanied by a brioche with sugar and orange blossom. Regulars prefer the tables in the back (never in the front row!). Starting at 11 a.m., they debrief on the previous night’s events and exchange invitations for upcoming parties.
The terrace at Le Sube is also quite popular; it offers a bird’s-eye view of the immaculate yachts with their proud silhouettes and perfect lines. If you can’t find a table on the tiny terrace, the English bar and its model boats offer a delightful retro atmosphere.
The narrow streets are lined with luxury boutiques, ice cream shops, art galleries, jewelers… At 16 Rue de La Ponche, designer Francesca Dana, a trained gemologist, creates unique pieces of fine jewelry entirely handmade in Venice. Diamonds, turquoise, Tahitian pearls, and aquamarines come together to form original and splendid jewelry… that truly steals the show. Even the most jaded billionaires come here to shop.
Place des Lices, well known for its pétanque tournaments, transforms into a large market on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. It’s a must-visit spot to fill your basket and refresh your wardrobe. Clothing stalls have gained ground on the stands selling tomatoes and cauliflower. Fashion addicts can find a skirt, a jacket, or a charming beach bag there… At Sable et Mer, blue, pink, or green sailor tops are always a hit. Proof that the nautical spirit remains inseparable from Saint-Tropez.
And then there’s the famous Tarte Tropézienne, created in 1955 and popularized by Brigitte Bardot. It’s impossible to resist this sweet treat. So much for the waistline.
Fancy a moment of contemplation? Just off the main street, the Sainte-Anne Chapel is worth the climb. Perched on a hill amid pine and cypress trees, it overlooks the bay in an almost surreal silence. Mick Jagger and Bianca Pérez celebrated their wedding there in 1971. Here, time seems to stand still.
Visit legendary museums… and immerse yourself in the history of Saint-Tropez
Housed in the town’s former gendarmerie, the Museum of the Gendarmerie and Cinema has become a cult favorite thanks to the “Gendarme de Saint-Tropez” series starring Louis de Funès. Uniforms, props, reenactments, and photographs transport visitors back to the golden age of Saint-Tropez cinema. The legendary films shot in Saint-Tropez—“And God Created Woman,” “The Swimming Pool,” “Bonjour Tristesse,” and “The Year of the Jellyfish”—serve as a reminder of just how much the village served as an open-air film set.
Amid these memories, the luminous image of Brigitte Bardot still lingers. More than a star, she was a revolution here. A free-spirited woman ahead of her time who forever transformed the image of Saint-Tropez around the world.
The Musée de l’Annonciade is another gem of Saint-Tropez. Housed in a 16th-century chapel, it is one of the most beautiful small museums in France. It features an exceptional collection of works by Nabis, Fauve, and Neo-Impressionist painters: Signac, Bonnard, Matisse, Derain, Vlaminck… All were captivated by that unique light that bathes the facades in gold at sunset and transforms the sea into a silvery mirror.
In a typical Saint-Tropez house, the Maison des Papillons showcases the astonishing collection of Dany Lartigue, painter and entomologist. A poetic and delicate visit, almost timeless.
Finally, you must climb up to the Citadel, built in the 17th century to protect the town from attacks. From up there, Saint-Tropez appears in all its splendor: the ochre rooftops, the endless sea, the bluish hills in the distance. It’s an excellent vantage point for watching the regattas during Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez. It’s also an opportunity to visit the Maritime History Museum and delve into the past of this pirate town.
Sip a signature cocktail in an idyllic setting… and forget about your phone
Located within the Hôtel Ermitage, the TIGrr has become one of the most sought-after hotspots on the French Riviera. It’s the ideal spot to admire the sunset over the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. We dare to order a signature Kamikaze cocktail (vodka and passion fruit) accompanied by a platter of spring rolls, sushi, and dim sum. There’s nothing more to say—everything is perfect.
Behind a discreet downtown facade, the Pan Deï Palais reveals an atmosphere worthy of One Thousand and One Nights. In the illuminated garden, by the turquoise pool, evenings take on an almost surreal quality.
Fancy a return to simplicity? Locals (and visitors alike) love to gather in the garden of the Hôtel Les Palmiers, facing the famous Place des Lices. With wicker armchairs and soft lighting, you can relax in this haven of peace. Unbeatable for its friendly atmosphere and very reasonable prices.
Lunch (or dinner) at a renowned restaurant… and savoring sun-kissed cuisine
Hôtel La Ponche, the smallest five-star hotel in Saint-Tropez, has lost none of its soul.
In the dining room, one can still imagine the conversations of Françoise Sagan, the bursts of laughter from Brigitte Bardot, or the saxophone of Boris Vian.
Today, it’s the gathering spot for a lively crowd of writers and intellectuals from Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Chef Simon Pinault treats guests to rockfish soup, the day’s fresh grilled catch, a beef tenderloin with chanterelle mushrooms, and the must-try warm chocolate mousse.
Under the plane trees of Place des Lices, Luna Rossa offers a delicious escape to Southern Italy. Refined antipasti, al dente linguine, perfectly cooked fish: everything here exudes la dolce vita. Inside, we love the round table for six set against a backdrop of alcoves showcasing ceramic artists.
In a narrow street of Old Saint-Tropez, BanH-Hoi transports diners between Thailand and Vietnam: fragrant, refined cuisine in an exotic setting. Some tables face the picturesque view of Place de L’Ormeau.
As for Pearl Beach, next to La Bouillabaisse, it’s also a safe bet for lunch by the sea in a laid-back atmosphere. It’s best to make a reservation to access the rooftop.
Finally, on the way to the beaches, La Pomme de Pin is a spot that regulars pass on by word of mouth. Under the arbor, this family-run restaurant offers hearty Italian and Sardinian cuisine. Simple, authentic, and affordable.
————— Also worth exploring to extend your Saint-Tropez experience————-
- Try the 8 a.m. yoga class organized by the Hôtel La Ponche on La Ponche Beach, the very spot where “And God Created Woman” was filmed.
- Stroll along the coast from downtown to Les Salins Beach, passing by Canoubiers and La Moutte beaches, amid wild coves and villas hidden beneath the pine trees.
- Choose Club 55 among Pampelonne’s private beaches to relax in the sun without the noise, and enjoy the restaurant’s excellent paella, grilled fish, and sangria.
- Discover the crystal-clear waters of the wild Escalet Beach, between Cap Camarat and Cap Taillat, ideal for a picnic and snorkeling.
- Stroll through the medieval village of Grimaud, linger at the harbor, then have lunch at Château Rose, the new flagship of Saint-Tropez’s hospitality scene (featuring a massive pool and a shala), with interiors designed by Sylvie Ranger.
- Stroll through the steep, narrow streets of Gassin before dining at La Villa Belrose, renowned for its fine dining and spectacular view of the gulf.
- Browse for treasures on Sunday morning at the Cogolin flea market before heading to La Garde-Freinet, a charming Provençal village with a few art galleries.
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Featured Photo: The magic of Saint-Tropez during “Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez” week, late September–early October. DR
