It’s a flagship dish in the world of haute cuisine, even if it has been democratised by industry. The world market for truffles could reach 550 million dollars by 2027, and they are a staple of Christmas tables, providing a livelihood for thousands of local artisans in France.
The most prestigious of all mushrooms, both for its fine flavour and its high price, the truffle is distinguished from its counterparts by its rich, earthy, nutty and highly delicate flavour. It can be used to enhance a wide variety of dishes, and continues to inspire top chefs and manufacturers alike.
550 million dollars in sales by 2027
Estimated at 340 million dollars in 2021 according to Business Research Insights, the global truffle market should reach 550 million dollars in 2027, with an annual growth rate of 8.35% over this period.
While countries such as China (a major producer), the United States, Australia and New Zealand have invested in truffle cultivation, France, Spain and Italy dominate 90% of production, according to the Business Scoot report.
In France, there are several varieties of truffle: the black truffle or Périgord truffle, the most important in terms of harvest, the Burgundy truffle and the white summer truffle. Truffles are still harvested in the traditional way, often using truffle dogs and pigs specially trained to unearth the fungus from the ground. Innovative research is seeking to develop the industry to ensure a constant supply of high-quality truffles.
Baron de la Truffe, La Truffe du Ventoux by the Jaumard brothers, Domaine du Grand Merlhiot, Galis, La Maison Pebeyre and market leader Maison Plantin are just some of the major names in the industry, which could number 20,000 truffle growers. Most production is concentrated in the south-east, in the Drôme, Vaucluse and Alpes de Haute Provence regions, according to FranceAgriMer.
Around 40% of French production is sold at truffle markets, 20% at retail markets throughout France and 30-40% directly to restaurants and consumers.
After a difficult period during the covid, demand is still there despite the high prices. Truffles can be bought for between €300 and €1,000 a kilo, with a predominance of the latter for quality products, and can easily reach several thousand euros for the most prestigious pieces.
Truffles: a symbol of French haute cuisine
In France’s most elegant and luxurious restaurants, it’s hard not to find a truffle on the menu. The product reigns supreme in the kitchens, and the black or beige shavings add the finishing touch to the plates in the dining room.
In Paris, the most emblematic establishment is the Maison de la Truffe, which has specialised in the mushroom since 1932. Its restaurant in the 8th arrondissement of the French capital is a must for lovers of the product. Truffes Folies, in the 7th and 8th arrondissements, are other restaurants well known to epicureans. There’s also Un jour à Peyrassol (2nd arrondissement), La Truffière (5th arrondissement) and Artisan de la Truffe (in Paris and abroad).
Truffles have also found their way onto the menus of many restaurants, from pasta dishes in Italian restaurants to street food and combinations with flavours from around the world.
Delicatessens take on truffles
While truffle dishes are driving up the price of restaurant plates, the product has been democratised through a number of more accessible items. Oil, pâté, salt, mayonnaise, sauce… For a few dozen euros, consumers can buy one of these products, sold in delicatessens and caterers as well as in supermarkets. The perfect top-of-the-range gift for the festive season.
This market, like the canned truffle market, allows the product to be consumed all year round, although the fresh truffle season runs from late November to early March. However, a minimum of 1% truffles is required for articles to use the term ‘truffle’. But beware of the tricks played by manufacturers, who sometimes mention the luxury mushroom without specifying that it is a natural flavouring used in a dish.
Read also: Five exceptional caviars for the festive season
Featured photo: © Unsplash