From January 20 to 25, Paris Men’s Fashion Week unveiled the fall-winter 2026-27 collections. Louis Vuitton, Jacquemus, Hermès… Focus on the season’s most memorable shows and the emergence of a rock dandy, with the added bonus of the return of the tie and slim-fit pants.
Looking closely at the latest Paris Fashion Week, the Fall/Winter 2026-27 man is more intellectual and sensitive, not to say sensual. With revisited suits, slim silhouettes, tartan patterns, ties, and faux fur, it’s time for the “New Romantics,” named after an underground tribe renowned in the 1980s for its flamboyant style. This decade is currently being rediscovered by Gen Z.
Next winter will see the emergence of a rock dandy, halfway between an urban silhouette straight out of the 2010s and the figure of the accursed poet à la Oscar Wilde.
From Louis Vuitton to Dior Man…
On the first day of Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton, under the direction of Pharrell Williams, presented a show at the eponymous Maison’s foundation in Paris in a setting reminiscent of a contemporary Zen garden, featuring a minimalist Japanese-style house designed in collaboration with Not A Hotel. A sober collection in shades of beige, gray, and brown—the latter emerging as the season’s dominant hue—featuring long coats, double-breasted styles, and a look that is both elegant and functional. The man behind Louis Vuitton Homme has rehabilitated both jogging pants and the tie.
At the Rodin Museum, Jonathan Anderson created a show for Dior Homme that was decidedly intellectual yet particularly theatrical. Presented as the emergence of a “new aristocracy,” the collection blends historical references with unapologetic modernity. The bold silhouettes play on proportions, contrasts, and the sparkle of sequins, without ever falling into ostentation.
Ami Paris, for its part, has put in the spotlight a resolutely Parisian style borrowed from some preppy elements. Between long coats, blazers and essential jeans, casual ties, caps and lighters tied around the neck insufflate a spontaneous, free and almost casual side.
The Issey Miyake parade was held at the Collège des Bernardins, in an almost meditative architectural setting. The opus explored enveloping volumes and modular constructions, centered on body movement. What particularly stood out: pieces that seemed to change shape while walking.
Rick Owens unveiled his collection in a raw and minimal place, faithful to his universe, with a deliberately austere staging. As artistic director and founder, he pursues his radical vision of a dark and monumental masculinity. The silhouettes were long-lined, almost sculptural, dominated by black and thick materials.
The show by Yohji Yamamoto took place in a hushed atmosphere, accentuated by a very controlled play of shadows and light. The Japanese designer, always at the head of the House, proposed a poetic and introspective vision of the masculine wardrobe. The clothes floated around the body, with loose drapes and monochrome overlays.
…via Hermès, and Jacquemus
Presented in an intimate location in Paris, the Dries Van Noten show marked a new stage under the direction of Julian Klausner. The style oscillated between classic elegance and artistic freedom, with very sensual silhouettes.
Junya Watanabe, for her part, explored once again the deconstruction of male tailoring. Hybrid jackets, technical overlays and workwear references dominated the collection.
Presented at the Palais Brongniart, the Hermès show had a strong emotional dimension: Véronique Nichanian, historical artistic director, signed her latest collection for the house. The style remained faithful to Hermès, between discreet luxury, impeccable cuts and exceptional materials.
The Sacai line by Chitose Abe stood out for its exploration of hybridization between tailoring and sportswear. The silhouettes seemed to be composed of nested pieces, creating a constant tension between structure and fluidity.
Finally, Jacquemus has chosen the Pablo Picasso Museum for the second time in its history. Simon Porte Jacquemus paid tribute to the work of Pablo Picasso, to Paloma Picasso and to the archives of the House. Transparency, pea, drape, rounded shoulders, marked hips… A joyful and sensual ode of the masculine and feminine wardrobe faithful to the Jacquemus spirit.
Read also : “2026 is the new 2016” : nostalgia from ten years ago invades social networks
Featured photo : Dior – DR
