A paragon of discretion and a specialist in men’s shirts, Maison Charvet made headlines in early July following its surprise acquisition by the fashion giant Chanel. Founded in 1838 and based on Place Vendôme (Paris) since 1877, the company crafts bespoke garments highly prized by politicians and celebrities around the world.
No advertisements, no online store, and no logo—yet a reputation that stands the test of time. This is what defines Maison Charvet, in addition to its unparalleled expertise in crafting men’s shirts. Early July, the fashion world was taken by surprise to learn of its acquisition by Chanel—especially since the company had always refused to be absorbed by other groups.
Voir cette publication sur Instagram
Founded in 1838, Charvet was, until July 2, owned by the Colban family. In fact, it is Jean-Claude Colban and his sister Anne-Marie who welcome customers to the boutique at 28 Place Vendôme in Paris, offering them thousands of fabrics for their custom-made garments. Before the siblings took the reins of this historic address, it was their father, Denis Colban—then a fabric supplier to the house—who bought the company from the Charvet descendants in the 1960s.
Before the Colban era came the Charvet era. Before Place Vendôme, there was Rue de Richelieu, in the capital’s 2nd arrondissement. In 1838, Joseph-Christophe Charvet—whose father was in charge of curating Napoleon I’s wardrobe—opened his boutique, where he gained recognition for innovations such as the “shoulder piece,” which provided better support for the shirt, and for his turned-back, pleated collar.
Voir cette publication sur Instagram
The following year, the house became the official shirtmaker for the Jockey Club, one of the world’s most exclusive clubs. Little by little, Charvet established itself in the wardrobes of royalty, including those at Buckingham Palace and that of Edward VII. From Charles Baudelaire to Robert de Montesquiou, including Marcel Proust and Winston Churchill, the cream of 19th- and 20th-century society flocked to Place Vendôme, where the company had set up shop in 1877. Since 1982, at number 28 in the Hôtel Gaillard de la Bouëxière, the Charvet boutique has been the oldest luxury retailer operating at this iconic Parisian location.
Craftsmanship above all
Even today, it attracts celebrities from around the world within its walls, including Nicolas Sarkozy, Kate Moss, Sofia Coppola, David Beckham, and Chloë Sevigny. This is why Charvet stands out as something of an anomaly in an increasingly connected and commercialized world. To date, the brand has no other boutiques in France or anywhere else in the world, no website, and certainly no brand ambassadors or logos. It’s all about a culture of excellence and craftsmanship.
It’s on the second floor of the store that the magic happens. The process of creating a custom-made shirt starts at 755 euros. The first step is taking measurements to create a unique pattern, followed by a muslin and a prototype. When it comes to colors, fabrics, and textures, the choice is a tough one, as Charvet offers a myriad of options.
Voir cette publication sur Instagram
“We create new shades of white twice a year. We combine different finishes, thread thicknesses, and weaves… Based on the principle that choosing means comparing, we give our customers the means to compare,” Jean-Claude and Anne-Marie Colban explained to *Le Monde*. The duo has even lost track of the number of shades available in their catalog, as there are several thousand options, they told the French daily.
The house also offers to tailor suits with a lead time of approximately six weeks. Charvet also crafts accessories such as silk scarves, ties, bow ties, cufflinks, and a wide variety of collars. The brand goes even further with its mules, available in 128 different shades. While bespoke tailoring is its flagship offering, the company also provides a semi-bespoke service as well as customizable ready-to-wear products.
The Chanel era
It is undoubtedly this heritage that drew Chanel to Charvet. In a press release sent to AFP at the time of the acquisition, the brand justified the move by citing its desire “to support, over the long term, the transmission of unique craftsmanship and the continuity of an iconic French heritage house, while fully respecting its creative independence.”
The company also clarified that this agreement stemmed more from a “creative dialogue” between Charvet and Matthieu Blazy, the creative director who joined Chanel in 2025 for his first ready-to-wear collection for Spring/Summer 2026. In fact, the designer had incorporated a tuxedo-style shirt adorned with a white pearl at the collar. The piece quickly sold out after it went on sale.
Voir cette publication sur Instagram
“For once, it wasn’t someone suggesting we make a T-shirt with two names on it,” Jean-Claude Colban told Vanity Fair about this collaboration. Beyond this mutual understanding, the connection between Charvet and Chanel is rooted in a longer-standing history.
Also highly prized for its pajamas and robes, the brand once welcomed Gabrielle Chanel, the founder of the double-C label, to have her pajamas made. Furthermore, Boy Capel, her lover and lifelong partner, was also a client of the brand. Matthieu Blazy reportedly imagined Coco wearing the British businessman’s clothes. “Historically, it makes sense,” Jean-Claude Colban told Vanity Fair. “It’s not about reproducing, but about shedding new light on the past,” he added.
Read more > The little story of… the mini-skirt : fashion and emancipation
Featured picture: © Instagram charvet_official
