Majestic and fragile, captivating and timeless, Venice reveals itself like a mirage set upon the water. At every turn of the canal, La Serenissima whispers centuries of history, art, and splendor. Between secret addresses, legendary hotels, exceptional restaurants, and off-the-beaten-path experiences, I open the doors to an authentic and refined Venice, designed for dreamers and insiders alike.
This summer, Venice made headlines by hosting the wedding of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sanchez. The event became a contemporary legend: illuminated palaces, a sparkling lagoon, guests gliding across the water at dusk… A spectacular, almost unreal setting.
But let’s not be fooled. La Serenissima does not need the pomp and circumstance of a billionaire to shine. Throughout the year, it celebrates beauty and the art of living through its major events: the Carnival in February, the opening of the Biennale in the spring, the Festa del Redentore in July, the Mostra and the Regata Storica in September. In Venice, the calendar itself becomes a musical score.
Venice is an enchanting city without equal. Unique in the world, without rival. People come here to be dazzled, of course, but above all to be moved. Venice does not seduce, it bewitches. It reminds us that luxury is not abundance, but emotion. Here, every morning is like a rebirth, every reflection in the water becomes a painting, every encounter a secret shared. Venice is not a destination: it is an initiation.
The Carnival in February is one of the best excuses to experience an unforgettable moment, provided you play along: wear a mask, dance, lose yourself in the night, and laugh with strangers who become your companions for the evening.
If you prefer tranquility, Venice is yours to discover, almost secret during the off-season between New Year’s and Carnival. Truman Capote summed it up perfectly: “Venice is like eating a whole box of liqueur chocolates at once.” It’s all about moderation. There’s no need to try to see everything, check everything off your list, or consume everything. Venice doesn’t like lists.
Nevertheless, here is my selection of places and experiences for experiencing the city differently—with curiosity and daring—in dolce vita style.
Take a motoscafi (water taxi) from the airport
To get to your hotel from Marco Polo Airport, nothing beats the charm of a motoscafi, the quintessential Venetian water taxi. Aboard an elegant varnished teak speedboat, the journey itself becomes an experience. From the very first minutes, the lagoon works its magic: the hustle and bustle fades away and Venice reveals itself.
This private water taxi takes you directly to your hotel’s pontoon in absolute comfort and a cinematic atmosphere. Expect to pay around €125 for a 25-minute crossing.
For a more economical option, the Alilaguna river shuttle connects the airport to the city for €18, with four lines serving the main districts.
In Venice, even the arrival is a promise: here, everything seems simple, almost natural, as the city floats on the water, a paradox that contributes to its incomparable charm.
Set down your suitcase at the Hotel Gabrielli Venezia, a historic gem
A few steps from Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) and the Biennale gardens, the Hotel Gabrielli is one of the most prestigious addresses in the City of the Doges. Recently renovated, this 14th-century palace, rated five stars, brilliantly combines historical heritage and contemporary elegance in a setting where every detail tells the story of Venice. A refuge for intellectuals and brilliant minds, the Gabrielli welcomed Sigmund Freud and Franz Kafka, who wrote numerous love letters to his fiancée Felice Bauer there. This literary heritage gives the place a unique, almost romantic aura.
After seven years of ambitious restoration, the palace reopened its doors at the end of August 2025, enhancing its past while offering resolutely modern amenities. Far from standardized lobbies, the hotel cultivates the spirit of a boutique hotel, where guests feel welcomed as if in a private Venetian residence. Noble materials, clean lines, and omnipresent light create a cozy, refined atmosphere that is never ostentatious.
The Felice al Gabrielli restaurant is a destination in its own right. Chef Mirko Pistorello creates creative and subtle cuisine inspired by the treasures of the Rialto market. His Risotto Crudo & Cotto dal Mercato del Pesce di Rialto perfectly illustrates this sensitive and precise approach, where each plate becomes a sensory experience.
The 66 rooms and suites, including the sumptuous Presidential Suite with a private rooftop terrace, invite guests to enjoy an intimate luxury that is not ostentatious, but rather whispered. The rooftop and sky bar, perched on the 6th floor, offer spectacular 360° views over the rooftops of Venice and the lagoon. In contrast, the vast garden, a rare privilege in La Serenissima, is an oasis of absolute calm.
Hotel Gabrielli Venice
Rooms from €512
Riva degli Schiavoni 4110 Venice
Tel.: +39 041 84491
Website: click here
Among the luxury hotels, the legendary Cipriani, located on the island of Giudecca, is the pinnacle of Italian chic. A little way out of Venice, it is the ideal place to enjoy a stay… without the paparazzi. With its huge swimming pool and glamorous restaurants, including Cip’s on the other side of the island, you can enjoy VIP treatment and slow living (for once!). Rooms from €1,025.
And for those on a tighter budget, we’ve found the‘Hotel Casa Verardo, a 16th-century residence with a charming shaded patio, just 100 meters from St. Mark’s Square. And also, La Corte Locanda, a former Venetian palace in the Castello district.
Strolling and getting lost in the alleys of Venice
Strolling through Venice is an act of resistance. You leave the crowds of Piazza San Marco behind and take a tangent. Without a specific plan and… above all, without GPS. It means accepting that you will get lost in order to find yourself again, often in a quiet campo; laundry drying in the windows; an old man feeding his cats.
At the bend in an alleyway, your gaze is caught by a weathered wall, a baroque archway, a precariously balanced church… In Venice, beauty does not seek to seduce, it is already there.
Bring a good pair of shoes, because it’s not uncommon to walk 15 kilometers a day. Here, there are no taxis, no bikes, no scooters. But there is the vaporetto, which often keeps you waiting and stops at many stations.
In Dorsoduro, La Serenissima breathes differently. More slowly. More deeply. The facades can be viewed without embellishment. People go jogging in the morning on the banks of the Zattere, bordered by the Giudecca canal. During the day, students rub shoulders with art collectors, and locals linger on the steps of churches.
Castello, a vast and discreet district, is one of the last bastions of everyday Venice. Children play in the Santi Giovanni e Paolo square while you savor the delicacies of Rosa Salva, Venice’s oldest pastry shop. On the Rio del Paradiso, a house stands surprisingly upright in the middle of the canal.
Near the Arsenale and the public gardens, Venice becomes greener, more open, and more airy. Take a deep breath of fresh air before admiring the works on display at La Biennale d’arte.
In Cannaregio, Venice becomes more popular and welcoming. We stroll through the streets, cross the bridges, and push open the door of the Ca’d’Oro museum. In the evening, the terraces fill up, glasses clink, and conversations stretch on. The local youth like to meet up here.
The Ghetto forces you to slow down. Created in 1516, the stones bear the memory, the silences are full. There are restaurants, shops, synagogues, museums… and a few soldiers in front of the frescoes of the Campo di Ghetto Nuovo.
A sweet romance in a gondola… but with a sandalo
No, the gondola ride is not necessarily a tourist trap, provided you know how to choose it. Far from the main routes and crowded canals, the sandalo offers an intimate, secret approach to Venice. Slimmer and lower on the water, there are only 19 of them out of the 450 or so boats registered in the lagoon.
On board, the city takes on a whole new look. The sandalo slips through places that traditional gondolas cannot reach: under surprisingly low bridges, through narrow, quiet, and secluded canals. The lagoon city reveals itself in its most authentic form.
A trip on the water becomes a suspended moment, almost unreal. Time slows down, the hustle and bustle fades away. The oar plunges into smooth water. The city holds its breath. The magic happens, gently, naturally.
Special mention to Lorenzo, a French-speaking gondolier, for an experience aboard a sandalo. Tel: +39 349 873 4187. Allow €90 for half an hour.
Have a drink in a legendary place
Sitting down at Caffè Florian, under the arcades of St. Mark’s Square, is like wrapping yourself in the hedonistic past of Europe. Founded in 1720, the world’s oldest café extends its terrace from the first days of spring, to the discreet sound of jazz or classical music. But the real charm lies inside. In the small 18th-century salons, gilded by light and memories, waiters twirl around with heavy silver trays. At aperitif time, guests enjoy a Spritz accompanied by cicchetti, Venetian appetizers that are savored like secrets. Here, the myth has lost none of its splendor.
A few steps away, Harry’s Bar is much more than a bar: it’s a rite of passage. Always crowded, you often have to settle for a stool at the counter, and that’s just fine. The atmosphere is cheerful, cosmopolitan, conducive to impromptu encounters. Ernest Hemingway was a regular here, and the Bellini, named in honor of the Venetian painter Giovanni Bellini, is still as perfect as ever.
Away from the crowds, between two museums or a shopping trip, La Caravella offers a timeless break. Its wooden decor, evoking the sailing ships of yesteryear, makes it a warm and welcoming place. Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre were regulars here. It’s a great place to settle down in the afternoon, far from the hustle and bustle of St. Mark’s Square.
For those who prefer to take in the view from above, the rooftops offer another side of Venice. The roof of the legendary Hotel Danieli or the aristocratic terrace of the Gritti Palace overlook the Grand Canal in a spectacular setting. More intimate, the rooftop of the Hotel Gabrielli charms with its discreet elegance. It’s fairly easy to get a table in the front row, facing the lagoon. As a bonus, you get a sublime view of the island of San Giorgio Maggiore when the sun goes down and Venice is bathed in gold.
Attend an opera under the gilded ceilings of La Fenice
Stepping through the doors of La Fenice is like entering a legendary theater. Founded in 1792, twice reduced to ashes and then rebuilt, it embodies the very soul of Venice: fragile, flamboyant, eternal.
Throughout the year, the Venice Opera House brings its gilded interiors to life with opera performances, ballets, and concerts that attract music lovers and aesthetes from around the world. Before the curtain rises, visitors linger in the hushed salons, admiring the gilded ceilings and listening to the murmur of the awakening auditorium. Time seems to stand still.
To prolong the magic, some evenings offer the opportunity to enjoy a cocktail in the salons of La Fenice, especially during Carnival, when masks and costumes add a touch of mystery to the atmosphere.
Another pleasure is dinner at La Taverna La Fenice, located right next to the theater and renowned for its refined cuisine.
Attending mass at St. Mark’s Basilica
Venice at dawn is a privilege that cannot be bought: it must be experienced. La Serenissima is a whisper. Not a backdrop, but a living poem. The shutters are still closed, the gondolas are motionless in the lagoon, and the wet cobblestones reflect a pale pink sky. Such is the magic of the deserted St. Mark’s Square.
We recommend attending Mass at St. Mark’s Basilica, entering through the “flower door” on Sunday at 8 a.m. Mass is said in Italian, but there are small booklets with translations in several languages at the entrance. What better way to discover this famous basilica than during this moment of contemplation?
Share a meal in a typical Italian restaurant
In Venice, choosing a restaurant is a matter of light, time, and mood. It’s not a hierarchy, but a geography of the heart. From the simplest to the most refined, everything fits together.
With a view of the Grand Canal at Trattoria Pontini, we enjoy delicious spaghetti (perfectly al dente) with seafood, elegantly served by Roberta, the charismatic owner. The tablecloths are simple, the recipes old-fashioned, sometimes stubbornly unchanged.
In the center of Venice, Ristorante Rosa Rossa is a family institution where Venetians gather to enjoy traditional dishes in an authentic setting. It’s an opportunity to savor delicious tagliolini aglio, olio e peperoncino, calamaretti e taccole, followed by a strong coffee and a limoncello. A precious table where cuisine is the language of the heart.
In the Cannaregio district, away from the hordes of tourists, we discovered a gem: L’Osteria Ormesini.
It’s best to book if you want a table on the terrace. They serve refined, inventive cuisine and the best tiramisu in the world! Yes, we have no hesitation in saying so. Even the luxury hotels can’t compete with Ormesini.
Visit the great museums of Dorsoduro
In the Dorsoduro district, Venice seems to breathe differently. The narrow streets are quieter, lined with museums, hidden galleries, andchic boutiques frequented by Venetian society and discerning art lovers.
From the Accademia Bridge, your gaze falls on the Contarini-Polignac Palace, an exceptional residence where the painter Roger de Montebello has set up his studio. To learn more about his artistic world, read this article in Luxus Magazine.
In the morning, the Gallerie dell’Accademia offers one of those luxuries that has become rare: silence. The masterpieces of Tintoretto, Veronese, and Bellini can be contemplated almost alone, without crowds or impatience. There’s no need to book your ticket in advance: take your time, stop, and let the paintings speak to you.
Another must-see is the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, an enchanting cultural stop. In this former palace overlooking the Grand Canal, the great figures of modern and surrealist art engage in dialogue: Picasso, Kandinsky, Dalí, Mondrian, Jackson Pollock… Linger on the terrace facing the lagoon, stroll through the garden dotted with sculptures by Calder, Giacometti, and Brancusi, before coming across the provocative and amusing equestrian statue by Marino Marini.
La Punta della Dogana offers a privileged experience. Upon reservation, it is possible to enjoy a private tour of the new exhibition by a contemporary artist selected by François Pinault‘s team (from €60 per person). At dusk, on the terrace of the former customs house, cocktail in hand, the blue hour reveals the perfect silhouette of the Basilica of San Giorgio Maggiore. Clic Clac: that evening, it is precisely 8:19 p.m. Venice holds its breath. Magical.
Your ticket allows you to visit the Palazzo Grassi the next day. Even if you’re not a fan of the program, the Palazzo Grassi is a must-see for its architecture, light, and lagoon views.
Go shopping… but only for high-end items
In Venice, there’s no such thing as frenzied shopping. We seek out the exceptional, the perfect gesture, the object imbued with meaning.
Maison Nardi is a century-old institution, now run by Alberto Nardi, the third generation of a line of Venetian goldsmiths. Rings, brooches, and pendants embody Venice in all its splendor. The world’s elite have been tempted to celebrate love here. Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, and Grace Kelly have worn his jewelry, which has become iconic.
In a more contemporary vein, we love the creations of Alessandro Palwer. It is an elegant and modern niche brand offering jewelry with a bold design that is accessible and subtly Venetian.
Venetians are enthusiastic about the antique Murano glass necklaces created by Sigrid de Montrond. “La Belle au Verre Dormant” brings old items back to life, transforming them into jewelry, lighting fixtures, or precious objects. Her creations are on display at the Palazzo Bragadin in Venice and at the Visconti art gallery in Paris. You can wear a necklace for an evening out or display it as a curiosity on a piece of furniture. To find out more, read the article in Luxus Magazine.
When it comes to handbags, we fell in love with Romi Loch Davis, a Venetian by adoption and designer. Her trimmings bags, embroidered with gold thread and dyed in the colors of Venice, are exceptionally elegant. Goodbye to leather bags that weigh a ton! They tell the story of la dolce vita in the lagoon city. More than just accessories, they are fragments of life sewn together with patience, emotion, and intention. Made in a family workshop in France, they range from evening bags to totes. This exceptional (and of course confidential) manufacturing process gives them a couture, glamorous, and timeless look. A bag with its own signature, unlike any other!
Looking for an exceptional piece of Murano glass? The ultimate choice is a work imagined, designed, and perfected by the Grande Dame of Glass, Maria Grazia Rosin. Bottles, vases, chandeliers, and even small, enigmatic figures inspired by the aquatic and animal worlds. These creations are exquisitely delicate and imbued with poetry. Discover them in the article in Luxus Magazine.
Finally, Alessandra’s furlane do more than just dress the foot. They tell the story of Venice. Originally, the furlana was the humble shoe of the gondolier, with a soft, silent sole made from recycled tires. Alessandra has reinvented their spirit with deep velvets—faded ruby, lagoon green, midnight blue—that seem to capture the reflections of the Grand Canal. Discover them in her boutique.
Rent a bike and explore Lido Island
A few minutes by vaporetto from La Serenissima, Lido Island seems to float outside of time, like a delicately patinated movie set. Here, Venice becomes seaside, elegant and slightly melancholic, enveloped in a retro charm that evokes summers of yesteryear and the refinement of a carefree Europe.Cycling along with your hair blowing in the wind and sunglasses on is a way to reconnect with la dolce vita. It’s moving to pass by the legendary Grand Hotel des Bains (now silent but still majestic) where Luchino Visconti shot his film Death in Venice.
At the end of each summer, the island regains its social glamour with the Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica, the world’s oldest film festival, founded in 1932. In front of the Palazzo del Cinema, evening gowns and tuxedos restore the Lido’s chic resort atmosphere, while camera flashes pop in front of the Adriatic Sea. Stars and festival-goers gather at the Hotel Excelsior, which could use a facelift to match the luxury hotels in Cannes. But sometimes true luxury is simply an atmosphere, an encounter…
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Take the Vaporetto line 2 to discover the city and some 50 palazzi (palaces and aristocratic residences), churches, bridges, and museums along the Grand Canal.
Step inside the Palazzo Ducale, a magnificent masterpiece of Venetian Gothic art, and discover the famous Bridge of Sighs, where prisoners took their last breath of freedom. Hence its name!
Visit the Correr Museum, located in St. Mark’s Square, whose rich collections tell the story of Venice.
Enjoy glasses of wine, prosecco, and spritz in the bacari, traditional Venetian bars, standing or sitting by the canal with a crowd of cheerful young people who are happy to raise a glass.
Dine at the Ai Barbacani restaurant by reserving the only table on the terrace overlooking the canal. A romantic little cocoon, ideal for lovers.
Book a musical evening in an apartment, the Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto. An original way to experience opera. With each new act, you move to another room in the palace; the intermission is accompanied by a glass of Prosecco.
Make an appointment for a private tour of the Palazzo Fortuny, its garden, and its showroom attached to the factory on the island of Giudecca.
Escape for a day to the island of Murano (meet master glassmakers and shop in the fornaci that produce the pieces) or the island of Burano, the prettiest island in the lagoon with its colorful houses.
Read also > In Venice, Chahan Minassian breathes new life into the Fortuny residence, the sleeping beauty of the lagoon
Featured photo: A couple having lunch on a terrace during the Venice Carnival. © Corine Moriou
